Stainless Steel - PAH!!
Ceramic discs and pads - That is the future!!
Mind you, if you don't ride when the brakes are cold or in the wet then you could really pay through the nose and have carbon. A case of less for more.
sandbar
Wavey discs
Moderators: slparry, Gromit, Paul
How long they last and how well they can cope with repeated heat cycles without warping are a major factor.This can vary on how good the quality the material is.Talon used to be able to sell you waveys discs at about £85 a side,wunderwank supply em for £130 +vat a side.I think that stinks cause talon would have made a profit on em.You can get car discs cheap or so it seems,bog standard ones are cheapish.But if you go for upmarket racing type discs then you pay through the nose,like we do.Remember bike discs have to be as light as possible as well as being as strong as possible.Dont really matter on a car as unsprung weight wont affect it as badly as a bike.It also boils down to mass production which helps keep cost down.Loads of cars on the roads compared to bikes.Mileage differences also has an effect on how often discs need changing,The old supply and demand thing.
gus
gus
-
winger
Just my view.....winger wrote:Hi Jason
How do i compare quality??
Discs make fu*k all difference to stopping power on the road. More important is the pad/master cylinder/hose combination.
I think brakes can be optimoized in 2 ways - for the track or for the road. Using either for the other is a compromise. Road setups fade on the track, and race setups don't work at typical speeds on the road.
Anyway, I think a 'typical' set of brakes is adequate for anyone on the road.
For the benefit of sciencific research, I'm happy to use average brakes and race anyone who disagrees.
Yours
Archie...............
I,ll agree and disagree with ya there archie if that makes any senseArchie wrote:Just my view.....winger wrote:Hi Jason
How do i compare quality??
Discs make fu*k all difference to stopping power on the road. More important is the pad/master cylinder/hose combination.
I think brakes can be optimoized in 2 ways - for the track or for the road. Using either for the other is a compromise. Road setups fade on the track, and race setups don't work at typical speeds on the road.
Anyway, I think a 'typical' set of brakes is adequate for anyone on the road.
For the benefit of sciencific research, I'm happy to use average brakes and race anyone who disagrees.
Yours
Archie...............
It does depend on what pads you use,as you have pointed out race pads wont really work that well under average road conditions as they designed to be used under severe use which produces heat which in turn can cause fade.Not really a problem on the road as there is sufficent time for normal pads and discs to cool down between applications.Unless your going down an alpine pass at full chat that is and trying to haul up 250 kilos of bike and rider!But there is an advantage in using different discs for different conditions,not just on the track.Cast iron discs over stainless ones work better in the rain in my view.Vented verus non vented discs,wavey versus round.I admit the advantage is small but with the right set up,master cylinder/pads hoses as you have said.Discs can help towards braking nirvana.I purchased a set of PT radial cylinders last year,along with stainless hoses and different calipers and new discs,i should have a decent setup.Also suspension setup/tyre make a huge difference.No use having brilliant brakes if you cant use em.
This race?Can i pick your bike with its adequate brakes?I was thinking along the lines of a enfield bullet.
I,ll go with a aprilla rs250 if thats OK. 
Then again i,ll think i,ll pass.I,ve heard your a bit of a nutter.
gus
ps watch sandbar come a long and try and flog us the merits of some ceramic discs/calipers.
Then again
-
iandunn1100ss
- Posts: 356
- Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2004 9:04 pm
- Location: bristol
Top of this page !!!!!:twisted: