electrical drain

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twodear
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Location: Adelaide Australia

electrical drain

Post by twodear »

I was wondering if anyone has information regarding the current draw of the ignition and injection systems?

I'm planning to eliminate the Lizards starter motor (push start or more probably a roller starter) and as a result the battery size can be reduced.

I'm wondering about eliminating the alternator as well, but what sort of amphour battery will I need to sufficiently power the injection and ignition for, well...an hour?

Is there an option to eliminate the battery and run it on the alternator alone? I'm thinking no, but I have to ask.
If enough is enough and more is better than too much should be just about right.
boxerpan
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Post by boxerpan »

Total loss systems for racing still require the battery, one of wingers contacts has been using the Odyssey 310 on the Ducati and I think it's worked out fine.
Lloyd

It's not how fast you ride, it's how you ride fast.
Light travels faster than sound. That's why some people appear
bright until you hear them speak.
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twodear
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Post by twodear »

boxerpan, thanks

I found this on the web...no weight is listed though.
http://www.odysseysoutheast.com/pc310-battery.php
If enough is enough and more is better than too much should be just about right.
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Ade B
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Post by Ade B »

have a total (dead :roll: ) loss racing set up on the R6 - use a standard gel battery and it does a whole track day. We hook it up to an optimate between sessions just in case.

Ade
2000 R1100S Sport
1980 Vespa P125X
boxerpan
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Post by boxerpan »

twodear wrote:boxerpan, thanks

I found this on the web...no weight is listed though.
http://www.odysseysoutheast.com/pc310-battery.php
Approx 2.7kg for the 310.

It was just an example of what folks are using. The 540 (just) or 680 will fit in the BMW battery tray.
Lloyd

It's not how fast you ride, it's how you ride fast.
Light travels faster than sound. That's why some people appear
bright until you hear them speak.
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oyster
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Post by oyster »

So much better if you can junk the alternator, about 6Kg in weight AND no drag on the engine from it. Almost any battery designed to turn a starter motor would work, gel even better as they can be fitted any way except upside down. Optimate between races. At this point I would make a new dedicated wiring loom, retain some in line fuses, and junk all the rest too. Soldered connections are better than plugs. I have seen 'battery eliminators' on ebay, made in USA, for all sorts of machines - may be of help to you instead of the above. I think it requires the alternator to power it and bump starts.
Oyster. 1999 R1100S. Almost original.
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twodear
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Post by twodear »

All good tips, thanks muchly.

The alternator will go onto the bench. I'll relocate the battery to where the alternator sat which will also allow a better air induct path.
If enough is enough and more is better than too much should be just about right.
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