Dai wiskers wrote:Not something that i do
Just get dressed climb on get it up off the stand then press button give it a couple of seconds to get the oil round then go
No need to warm up anything with fuel injection
Hope this helps Dai
With you on that Dai.
The old practice of 'warming up' means poison for your engine.
The corrosive condensation produced during the warm-up phase will find its way into the oil, as well as acting corrosively on the piston/rings during its short contact time.
Modern oils (from easily 20 years ago) contain anti-scuff additives that protect sliding parts for the second or so until oil pressure rises.
The MOST IMPORTANT thing, once oil pressure is up,
is to move off under very light load: this causes the great bulk of the condensate to be blown out the tailpipe.
DON'T give the throttle a blip on startup, OR exceed 2000-3000 rpm until oil temp rises.
WHY: all to do with piston speed and the ability of the oil film to shear (smear) quickly enough i.e not 'tear' to prevent piston-to-bore contact.
Whilst oil is cold its kinematic viscosity is high, meaning that it can't be smeared quickly without the smear film 'tearing', allowing some metal-to-metal contact.
As the temp rises and the oil 'thins', it can be smeared far more easily, therefore providing a lubricating film
Think about spreading cold butter on bread without tearing the bread. Similar mechanism.
Shorter stroke engines can be revved a little higher.
The bore/stroke of our engines are similar to those of many car engines, including my 928 Porsche.
It was through being paranoid about lubrication of the 928 that I discovered much info on lubrication... ahem koff koff... engine lubrication ... you bunch of perverts
, that I can now apply to my S.
What has surprised me during my return to 'modern' riding is the almost complete disconnect between the car and bike worlds as far as sharing/understanding 'stuff' like lubrication info.
Sad to say it's in the main that riders are still talking Old Mechanics Oil Tales from 30 years ago, and putting up with 'avoidable' component wear and failure as the bike rider's lot.
I'd better stop or I'll be here all night.
But two points:
- make sure your oil contains >> 1000pm of ZDDP.
- make sure the cold-start viscosity (the W number) is matched to the worst operating temps:
eg some ppl get away with thinner summer oils only 'cos their car/bike lives in a warmish garage.
Then they have to park on the street for a while and they wonder why the engine rattles a bit before the oil pressure comes up. Nom nom nom ... burrrrp ...
- change the oil filter every 'second' oil change.
Works on the same principle that K&N would have you believe their air filters are better:
- as the filter collects contaminants it enhances its ability to collect finer contaminants.
Yep. OK up to a point, with the question being "what is getting past the filter until it gets suitably 'clogged'?", and what is "IT" doing to your engine until then?
But there are dynamic differences separating each situation:
- gravel coming through the air filter has maximum, raw, wear impact on the rings, piston and bore.
- startup 'wear' particle effects within the circulating oil are, to some degree, buffered by the lubrication film, and are intermittent compared to say the contaminants entering the engine via the air filter when riding day-after-day in dry dusty conditions.
- in actual fact it is the oil filter that finally traps the debris produced by the K&N gravel grinding between the bore and rings and then washed down into the crankcase.
Having said all that there are US public sector vehicle fleet maintenance studies to support the long term benefits of the 'every second oil / filter change'.
Follow that with Suzuki's 'every second' change regime for the Hyabusa and other large capacity models, achieving an engine life exceeding 250,000 km.
Note also that only paper air intake filters are used during these studies.
OK.
Gone now.
Bye.
.
