Apologies.....what final drive oil for R1200S!
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- StreetFlatTwin
- Posts: 429
- Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2011 8:41 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Apologies.....what final drive oil for R1200S!
Sorry guys I know the whole oil thing has been done to death and I have used the search bu can't find exactly what I am looking for.
So what exact oil are recommended for the final drives both spec and manufacturer? Fully/semi synthetic?
I plan on swapping the final drive oil and want to get it right!!
Oh and should the gearbox oil be changed as well?? Bike is on 10k and is a 2007 bike.
Thanks again!
So what exact oil are recommended for the final drives both spec and manufacturer? Fully/semi synthetic?
I plan on swapping the final drive oil and want to get it right!!
Oh and should the gearbox oil be changed as well?? Bike is on 10k and is a 2007 bike.
Thanks again!
I always use the castrol syntrax 75w 90 that BMW recommend. It also used to be known as SAF XO I think but they had a rebrand.
It's the same stuff they use in the gearbox. PM me your email and I will send you the BMW instructions. Note, the latest service instructions show a reduced quantity of oil from the originally published quantity.
It's the same stuff they use in the gearbox. PM me your email and I will send you the BMW instructions. Note, the latest service instructions show a reduced quantity of oil from the originally published quantity.
********Jim********
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2006 'Colgate' R1200s
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2006 'Colgate' R1200s
- StreetFlatTwin
- Posts: 429
- Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2011 8:41 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
- Droptarotter
- Posts: 364
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 5:02 pm
- Location: Cloverdale, BC, Canada
This job is awkward without some proper stands.
Is there any way you can secure the front end down before you lift the bike to remove the rear wheel.
Reason I ask is you will be pushing/pulling/fiddling when trying to get the drive splines lined up.
I do mine by putting the front wheel in my Handy lift wheel vice, get the torque arm, caliper and any other parts ready for removal.
I then put a scissor jack under the front part of the swing arm, remove rear wheel, and then swing the final drive down to drain.
Hope this helps.
Is there any way you can secure the front end down before you lift the bike to remove the rear wheel.
Reason I ask is you will be pushing/pulling/fiddling when trying to get the drive splines lined up.
I do mine by putting the front wheel in my Handy lift wheel vice, get the torque arm, caliper and any other parts ready for removal.
I then put a scissor jack under the front part of the swing arm, remove rear wheel, and then swing the final drive down to drain.
Hope this helps.
Hi Streetflattwin, have a look at the BMW link where you can download the manual for your bike. Just in case some one lost their manual it can be found on BMW website under the service tab.
http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/com/en/inde ... ¬rack=1
http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/com/en/inde ... ¬rack=1
'Let me check my concernometer.'
- StreetFlatTwin
- Posts: 429
- Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2011 8:41 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Thanks for the assistance and advice.
I'll put the front wheel against the garage wall to stop the bike moving forward then jack the bike up from underneath the engine.
So just to confirm if I order some Castrol syntrax 75w 90 I can use this in the final drive (180ml) and ALSO in the gearbox (800-900ml)???
Once I get round to swapping the final drive and gearbox oil I'll put up a few pictures of the oil for comparison!!!
I'll put the front wheel against the garage wall to stop the bike moving forward then jack the bike up from underneath the engine.
So just to confirm if I order some Castrol syntrax 75w 90 I can use this in the final drive (180ml) and ALSO in the gearbox (800-900ml)???
Once I get round to swapping the final drive and gearbox oil I'll put up a few pictures of the oil for comparison!!!
Yes, you can use the same Castrol Syntrax Longlife 75W-90 oil in both gearbox and final drive.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-737-castrol ... 5w-90.aspx
For the gearbox it calls for API GL 5. I have no idea what any of that means, but the above product meets this spec.
Some more recent documents seem to call out EPX 80w-90, which is a cheaper product. So seeing as you have to buy 2 bottles, as you need approx 1.1 litres (typical) you could buy one of each.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-724-castrol ... r-oil.aspx
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-737-castrol ... 5w-90.aspx
For the gearbox it calls for API GL 5. I have no idea what any of that means, but the above product meets this spec.
Some more recent documents seem to call out EPX 80w-90, which is a cheaper product. So seeing as you have to buy 2 bottles, as you need approx 1.1 litres (typical) you could buy one of each.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-724-castrol ... r-oil.aspx
********Jim********
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2006 'Colgate' R1200s
---------------------------
2006 'Colgate' R1200s
- StreetFlatTwin
- Posts: 429
- Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2011 8:41 pm
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Another point I forgot. Since they introduced the service interval to the maintenance free final drive, BMW also changed the support bolt from a single use (ovalised) bolt to a standard bolt, washer and loctite. You will need to get this from BMW. Only costs a few pence.
********Jim********
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2006 'Colgate' R1200s
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2006 'Colgate' R1200s
PM me your email and I will send you the BMW service instruction. There are other ways to do it which don't involve dropping the unit downwards to drain the oil, but I prefer to follow the BMW method. That way I know all of the old oil is out.
You will need to buy a big syringe, I got one from my vet, without the needle, and used it with a bit of clean fuel hosing.
You will need to buy a big syringe, I got one from my vet, without the needle, and used it with a bit of clean fuel hosing.
********Jim********
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2006 'Colgate' R1200s
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2006 'Colgate' R1200s
Great, thanks Jim, PM sent.Herb wrote:PM me your email and I will send you the BMW service instruction. There are other ways to do it which don't involve dropping the unit downwards to drain the oil, but I prefer to follow the BMW method. That way I know all of the old oil is out.
You will need to buy a big syringe, I got one from my vet, without the needle, and used it with a bit of clean fuel hosing.