Urgent help pls... BBPOWER jumper lead

PBBoxer · Post by **PBBoxer** » Fri Nov 26, 2004 10:30 pm

Hi
really soory but i cant remember what the jumper looks like.. can anyone describe it pls?
Also does anyone have a diagram or instructions they could let me have a copy of?
Me bikes in bits and im stuck!

a-jay26 · Post by **a-jay26** » Fri Nov 26, 2004 11:28 pm

Off the top of my head the jumper will be located in the front left fuse box under the clocks...if you are sitting on the bike. Remove the cover and the jumper is the unit at the very front of the relay box...mine was a dull yellow I think?? If you have removed it allready then I think the terminal were the top middle linked to the middle right....but don't quote me!! I think you can actually run with no link in as well as that is a map in the BB Power chip. I installed mine with a three position switch which then allows me to select three different programmes. You will need the wiring sheet as it does involve choosing a common connection. Unfortunately I can't help any further cause I am at work in the north sea and all the stuff is at home.

Hope it helps....failing that.....wait three weeks till I'm Home!!!!

Andy

Gromit · Post by **Gromit** » Fri Nov 26, 2004 11:29 pm

PB - check out Rob Wijhenke's site - he's got a pic of the BBPower jumper settings diagram. In fact, have a look here

PBBoxer · Post by **PBBoxer** » Fri Nov 26, 2004 11:36 pm

thanks very much boys
pb

PBBoxer · Post by **PBBoxer** » Fri Nov 26, 2004 11:48 pm

Great stuff.... one of the settings (stage three) involves no links at all.
This is for: "connection tube without cat, open end muffler"

I THINK i should have stage two... what do you guys think?
I have lennies, k and n filter, laser road legal, y piece and chip... do you think i'd get away with a stage three?

Cheers PB

a-jay26 · Post by **a-jay26** » Sat Nov 27, 2004 5:27 am

Take yourself off down to Maplins and buy a switch similar to this one:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?Mod ... &doy=27m11

I have a toggle switch that has three positions, use the middle left connection as a common then have one position of the switch connected to the bottom middle (stage 2) another connected to the top middle (stage 4) and when you select the centre position the switch is basically off so you have selected Stage 3. Turn the ignition off change the switch to a different position and hey presto, you now have three engine maps to choose from, as easy as pie!! I'm sure with different switches you can wire it differently to select other maps. I have this system on my bike......but to be honest I can't tell the difference between them!!

Andy

oyster · Post by **oyster** » Sat Nov 27, 2004 7:23 am

It seems to me that the easy option is to pull the code plug and save the effort of fitting a switch! Many owners seem to have Lennies, K&N, Y pipe and stock silencer (or similar), stock chip and Lambda sensor still connected. As I have. Mine is bordering lean mix. Disconnecting the Lambda will only make a difference - slightly richer - at under 3000 rpm. So I have left mine in. The question appears to be, is it worth the expense (and strip down effort) to fit a chip, and if so, which one!?

PBBoxer · Post by **PBBoxer** » Sat Nov 27, 2004 9:45 am

<< IM GOIN TO MAPLINS

IS IT AS GOOD AS BUTLINS?

cheers again will do this today

PBBoxer · Post by **PBBoxer** » Sat Nov 27, 2004 2:14 pm

OK time for another numpty question....
Looking at the diagram and comparing to the fuese box... when i look at the fuse box from the left hand side of the bike, there is a socket for jumpers on the very left edge ie the front edge of the fuse box...
Is the top of the diagram in sync with the top part of these sockets ie the highest... or the front most part?
I take it its the top but obviously am unsure.
There isnt a jumper installed at all at the moment so its (i understand) set to stage 3, which should be ok until i get the wire to set it to stage 2.

Thanks again PB

Gromit · Post by **Gromit** » Sat Nov 27, 2004 4:03 pm

PB - if you're running a Lennie's/K&N/Laser with its own cans I'd definitely keep it on 3. I used to with exactly the same set up and it was just about spot-on. 2 is for a Laser mid pipe with standard or E-marked cans. When you add the induct you're pushing a fair bit more air through the motor, so the extra stage will (should!) help compensate.

If you look at the sockets on your bike and the diagrams in the picture, there's only one way round that it can be due to the shape of the holes (ie 'horizontal' or 'vertical').

hth.

PBBoxer · Post by **PBBoxer** » Sat Nov 27, 2004 4:22 pm

Very helful all of you, thanks... well stage three is with no connectors and thats how i've left it.. phew.
Ive just been out on the biek and im trying to convince myself there are things wrong..... but it does sprint up to a ton almost "quickly"now...feels preety sharp.
The only thing I cant quite get to grips with, is there seems to be a distinct sort of hiccup every so ofetn when im on constantthrottle and speed... almost like a very qick loss and regain of power.

This s all because i cant remember how the bike used to ride before the crash: There seems to be a hesitation then a sliht lump as i crack the throttle or close it off.. do others feel like this?
My memory must be tricking me maybe, as i remember the bike picking up without any feel of "play" in the drive ...or at shut-off
Still love the bike tho!

PBBoxer · Post by **PBBoxer** » Sun Nov 28, 2004 3:25 pm

If anyone is interested I have just ahd a diagram and instructions from BBPower for the pre-twinspark 1100s chip.
His diagram of the stage settings is slightly different to the one post on here earlier.
Cheers PB