Don't get put off by the North West - it's pretty built up and Tangier is a dump (assume you are doing the Algeciras - Tangier ferry?) Also at the border you'll be offered help by a 'guide' to get through customs, etc ... it is about the only time I would suggest taking them up on the offer. They can be of great help to speed things up for the few Euros or whatever you give them. (You get a stamp in your passport for your bike too - make sure you bring it back out!
) Things may have changed though.Gets better after Cabablanca - but it's all good mate. Thankfully, the antithesis of Norway .. ha ha .. sorry Blackal
Essaouira is nice spot like I said on the coast - from there it's only 2 hours max into Marrakech on a bike (bus takes 2.5 hours). It's all changing so fast - I was there in January and it's got a lot more touristy due to the cheap direct flights. But the Jlema el Fnar square is still an eye opener in the evening - good food too (just stick tot he busy high turn over stalls and you'll be fine).
East is for sure the less used roads - to say they are worse I am not sure. They can all be patchy in places - but the east is quieter (they are scared of those nasty Algerians
) so makes for more 'relaxing' riding. Fez is a nicer town than Marrakech in my opinion - hey, I mean with hats like that what's not to like! Harder to get to so better From Midelt to Fes you are in Berber territory and they are very friendly - and probably own a camel called Jimi Hendrix.Heat? Ha ha - I was camping in the High Atlas in Febuary and almost died of cold (at night). Middle Atlas isn't much better. Both the ranges 'protect' you from the Saharan heat and can get very chilly at altitude. Worth riding through the middle atlas though on your way back up ... also the Rif range (Chefchouen still a nice town). Marrakech at the end of Jan was clear skies - warm enough to sit out until dusk - then chilly. Gets b*stard hot sometimes though as it's trapped between the two ranges.
Blah blah blah .. doesn't he go on!
Aaron
One light fingered local and your loooking at £600 
Buying insurance at the border is easy - how long you going in for? Make sure you have cash (Euros fine). I remember an issue with cards but that was a while back.