Hi all again,
Can anyone tell me if its a hard job to change the cat for a Y piece on my boxercup?
Cannons have told me that its a nightmare, as 1. i need to remove the tank to undo the senser wire at the other end? dont think so..., and 2, i have to remove the whole rear sub frame to get the pipe on.
i think they just want me to give it to them and pay for them to fit it.
Any help/advice on this please?
Aaron
1.No it isn't a nightmare,but might be if your a numpty and it's all corroded.
2 What Cannons tell you is technically correct,they'll want to do that rather than risk twisting the Lamba wire as you undo the sensor out of the cat,but you don't need to.
3.Removeing the subframe(no you don't need to) is just bollocks.
Saying it's a nightmare is overstating it somewhat...
You will have to take off the fairing plastics and undo the two side tank retaining bolts to get at the lambda sensor plug to unplug it, but that's no big deal. There's absolutely no need to remove the rear subframe though.
The 4 bolts attaching the headers to the cat are likely to shear or be too rusty to reuse, so equip yourself with 4 new ones before you start the job, as well as a couple of fresh gaskets. It's then simply a case of:
0) Unplug Lambda Sensor under tank.
1) Undo the 4 bolts attaching the headers to the cat. Don't worry if they shear, since the thread is in the cat you are trashing, not the header.
2) undo the bolt from the tie bar attached to the end cans into the exhaust pipe. Try not to shear this one... a bit of WD40 or plus gas sprayed on the offending bolt the day before may help.
3) loosen the collar holding the cans to the pipe.
4) optional: remove numberplate hanger and disconnect brake light.
5) Jiggle cans towards back of bike to release from pipe (step 4 prevents damage to the brake light cable).
6) jiggle dead cat away from bike and remove lambda sensor probe (22mm spanner if memory serves).
Reassembly is the reverse of assembly ( (c) Haynes 1946-present)
points to note for reassembly:
1) you may need to reuse the rubber bungs from the old CAT on the new Y piece These are the ones in the pegs that locate onto the underside of the engine frame.
2) the locating pins on some y pieces are notoriously "all to cock" and may take some advanced buggering about to locate in the frame.
3) laser y pieces have an up pipe which is fractionally narrower in diameter than the stock part. you may need to make a shim from an old coke can to insert between the up pipe and the end cans to ensure a snug fit.
4) most y pieces have the Lambda sensor neared the back wheel than the engine, so you may need to undo the cable ties bundling up the lambda sensor wire under the tank to give you self an extra length of wire to play with.
5) If you have a centre stand, you no longer have a stop on your Cat to rest it against, so you need to purchase a gizmo from Wunderlich that attaches to the centre stand and has a rubber stop to make it rest against the engine frame instead, when raised.
That's all the gotchas I can think of. What brand of Y piece are you fitting?
Cheers,
Paul
You really need only two tools: WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
Blimey Paul not bad for a bloke that doesn't own one ,i tend to not get into painting by numbers i work on the basis if you've the brains to ride it then you've got enough to strip e'm!!!!.
But if were getting into that,Paul missed the important bit,getting the lamba out of the cat,if you disconnect the lamba wire first it means you can use a ring spanner,alternatively warm the bike up and try and loosen it first,other wise use a hot air gun on it,but it can be a real pain holding the cat and trying to spanner at the same time.
One thing, try to at least loosen the Lambda before you remove the cat, it is extremely tight and once the cat is out its a bugger to hold still, i put a blow torch on mine first and then used a self adjusting wrench, an open end spanner will just slip and bugger the flats.
I did it so it can't be that hard. If your resonably competent with a spanner and have the right tools for the job you should be OK.
From memory the header to cat bolts are very tight to the frame so you will need a long ball end allen key to get at them at an angle. Mine were pretty clean but then again I don't do many miles and rarely in the wet. The belly pan of the BCR protects the cat from the worst of the road.
Bit of a bugger having to lift the tank to access the lamda sensor connector but well worth doing IMO. Saves replacing the whole thing later when you realise you've broken a wire
Just follow Pauls (and Chris's) instruction and you'll be OK.
If you get into trouble I'm sure there will be more than one Trixter willing to lend a hand.
I agree with all of the above... except... I think it is easier to remove the rear subframe with the cans in place than actually remove the cans themselves. Removing the rear subframe complete is actually about a 10 minute job. 4 bolts, 4/5 multi plugs and release the rear brake pipe - job done. Getting the cans on/off my bike in-situ involved the fabled Feck off rubber hammer and 100% use of my complete swearing vocabulary.
Over all - pretty simple job, especially if you don't care how you get the bolts out the cat
Jason
2002 Black GSA (for random fault analysis and for stealing all my weekends fixing the b'stard)
2000 Black R1100S (for remembering the good old times)
Once you've undone the sensor wiring under the tank it's easy enough to slip a large ring spanner over the end of the wire and down to the sensor to give better purchase on the rusted in sensor. Use lots of WD in advance to assist.
Shoving the cans back off the rubber bungs may scratch the sides on the rear indicator mounting screws. Back the screws out or remove or use some thick tape on the sides of the cans.
Thankyou very much for that paul,
really helpfull!
Im fitting a Lazer Y piece.
(hope i dont have to cut up a coke can!
thanks again
Aaron
Paul wrote:Saying it's a nightmare is overstating it somewhat...
You will have to take off the fairing plastics and undo the two side tank retaining bolts to get at the lambda sensor plug to unplug it, but that's no big deal. There's absolutely no need to remove the rear subframe though.
The 4 bolts attaching the headers to the cat are likely to shear or be too rusty to reuse, so equip yourself with 4 new ones before you start the job, as well as a couple of fresh gaskets. It's then simply a case of:
0) Unplug Lambda Sensor under tank.
1) Undo the 4 bolts attaching the headers to the cat. Don't worry if they shear, since the thread is in the cat you are trashing, not the header.
2) undo the bolt from the tie bar attached to the end cans into the exhaust pipe. Try not to shear this one... a bit of WD40 or plus gas sprayed on the offending bolt the day before may help.
3) loosen the collar holding the cans to the pipe.
4) optional: remove numberplate hanger and disconnect brake light.
5) Jiggle cans towards back of bike to release from pipe (step 4 prevents damage to the brake light cable).
6) jiggle dead cat away from bike and remove lambda sensor probe (22mm spanner if memory serves).
Reassembly is the reverse of assembly ( (c) Haynes 1946-present)
points to note for reassembly:
1) you may need to reuse the rubber bungs from the old CAT on the new Y piece These are the ones in the pegs that locate onto the underside of the engine frame.
2) the locating pins on some y pieces are notoriously "all to cock" and may take some advanced buggering about to locate in the frame.
3) laser y pieces have an up pipe which is fractionally narrower in diameter than the stock part. you may need to make a shim from an old coke can to insert between the up pipe and the end cans to ensure a snug fit.
4) most y pieces have the Lambda sensor neared the back wheel than the engine, so you may need to undo the cable ties bundling up the lambda sensor wire under the tank to give you self an extra length of wire to play with.
5) If you have a centre stand, you no longer have a stop on your Cat to rest it against, so you need to purchase a gizmo from Wunderlich that attaches to the centre stand and has a rubber stop to make it rest against the engine frame instead, when raised.
That's all the gotchas I can think of. What brand of Y piece are you fitting?
Thankyou very much to all of u for giving me great advice, ive got a mate who is good at this sort of stuff so that should help. The only thing im not sure about now it if i should lift the tank to unplug it from the other end or not?
The bike only had a few miles on it when i got it, and all my miles have been dry so im hoping the bolts will be ok!
i will soak it all in wd40 and go for it!
Thanks again for all ur help!
will post here how i got on.
thanks
Aaron
budman200210 wrote:Thankyou very much for that paul,
really helpfull!
Im fitting a Lazer Y piece.
(hope i dont have to cut up a coke can!
thanks again
Aaron
Paul wrote:Saying it's a nightmare is overstating it somewhat...
You will have to take off the fairing plastics and undo the two side tank retaining bolts to get at the lambda sensor plug to unplug it, but that's no big deal. There's absolutely no need to remove the rear subframe though.
The 4 bolts attaching the headers to the cat are likely to shear or be too rusty to reuse, so equip yourself with 4 new ones before you start the job, as well as a couple of fresh gaskets. It's then simply a case of:
0) Unplug Lambda Sensor under tank.
1) Undo the 4 bolts attaching the headers to the cat. Don't worry if they shear, since the thread is in the cat you are trashing, not the header.
2) undo the bolt from the tie bar attached to the end cans into the exhaust pipe. Try not to shear this one... a bit of WD40 or plus gas sprayed on the offending bolt the day before may help.
3) loosen the collar holding the cans to the pipe.
4) optional: remove numberplate hanger and disconnect brake light.
5) Jiggle cans towards back of bike to release from pipe (step 4 prevents damage to the brake light cable).
6) jiggle dead cat away from bike and remove lambda sensor probe (22mm spanner if memory serves).
Reassembly is the reverse of assembly ( (c) Haynes 1946-present)
points to note for reassembly:
1) you may need to reuse the rubber bungs from the old CAT on the new Y piece These are the ones in the pegs that locate onto the underside of the engine frame.
2) the locating pins on some y pieces are notoriously "all to cock" and may take some advanced buggering about to locate in the frame.
3) laser y pieces have an up pipe which is fractionally narrower in diameter than the stock part. you may need to make a shim from an old coke can to insert between the up pipe and the end cans to ensure a snug fit.
4) most y pieces have the Lambda sensor neared the back wheel than the engine, so you may need to undo the cable ties bundling up the lambda sensor wire under the tank to give you self an extra length of wire to play with.
5) If you have a centre stand, you no longer have a stop on your Cat to rest it against, so you need to purchase a gizmo from Wunderlich that attaches to the centre stand and has a rubber stop to make it rest against the engine frame instead, when raised.
That's all the gotchas I can think of. What brand of Y piece are you fitting?
Lifting the tank is a 2 minute job,take the air scoop of the left side,which leaves you with a bolt(allen head) either side and the tank just lifts up.
Re the rear cans,take the number plate off etc,spray WD over the metal spigots than the rubber are stuck on and just wobble the cans about,do not attempt to take e'm till you've done it half a dozen times,and then make an effort,wobble side to side and pulling back at the same time,Oh e'r vicar!!!!
Cheers winger!!!
hope i report back happy!!!
Aaron
winger wrote:Lifting the tank is a 2 minute job,take the air scoop of the left side,which leaves you with a bolt(allen head) either side and the tank just lifts up.
Re the rear cans,take the number plate off etc,spray WD over the metal spigots than the rubber are stuck on and just wobble the cans about,do not attempt to take e'm till you've done it half a dozen times,and then make an effort,wobble side to side and pulling back at the same time,Oh e'r vicar!!!!
I have actually removed the sensor w/o disconnecting. Ther is enough fles in the wire to allow this... just remember to "preload" the winds back in to the wires before replacing... so they end up untwisted.
Stuart
.......~ ~
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Ride due west to the sunset, turn left at the Rocky Mountains. (Jeremiah Johnson)
R1100S 2003. The Fast Colour. G650 Xchallenge 2008. F650CS Black 2003 SWMBO
Yeah that did cross my mind Stuart, i will try that first!
I think its a case of "suck it and see"!!!
Thanks.
snavetrauts wrote:I have actually removed the sensor w/o disconnecting. Ther is enough fles in the wire to allow this... just remember to "preload" the winds back in to the wires before replacing... so they end up untwisted.
The only time i've taken my lamba off was when i replaced it with the Bosch one that came with the PC,i've always twisted mine,but i can understand Cannons saying what they did,plus the fact it's a great chance to strip the bike to find out what makes it tick,3 days after buying mine in 2000 it was spread all over the garage floor!!!,purely on a need to know basis.
Because of the number of times i've had mine apart,the wire to the rear number plate is folded away and the light was binned,all i have now is an C/F Ilmberger jobie but there are alsorts of tail tidys,just makes for one less complication when i'm takeing the bike to bits,i can strip the complete pipe off in what?? 5 minutes.
,i tend to not get into painting by numbers i work on the basis if you've the brains to ride it then you've got enough to strip e'm!!!!.
