which may not be properly servicable. It was not advertised with abs otherwise i would not have bothered following it up, However does anyone know what is involved in removing it from the bike or disabling it?Chris.
Disabling/removing ABS
Moderators: slparry, Gromit, Paul
-
boxerscott
- Posts: 3724
- Joined: Sat Apr 21, 2007 5:07 pm
- Location: scottish borders
- Contact:
Disabling/removing ABS
I am looking into buying an 1100gs and have found out that it has an ABS system which may not be properly servicable. It was not advertised with abs otherwise i would not have bothered following it up, However does anyone know what is involved in removing it from the bike or disabling it?
Chris.
which may not be properly servicable. It was not advertised with abs otherwise i would not have bothered following it up, However does anyone know what is involved in removing it from the bike or disabling it?Chris.
Fiat Panda.
Fiat Scudo (with speedblock, pipe carrier, reversing sensors, reversing camera, tow bar, some new rust and Fake Plumber logo)
started out with nothing, still have most of it left.
Fiat Scudo (with speedblock, pipe carrier, reversing sensors, reversing camera, tow bar, some new rust and Fake Plumber logo)
started out with nothing, still have most of it left.
Simple removal. At the hydro unit Undo brake lines and disconnect electrical connections.
Remove unit from bike. Replace the front metal pipes where they join the diverter at the headstock/frame with a link pipe thats available from BMW. The rear flexible line you can reconnect straight to the master cylinder.
Remove the ABS relays. Remove the front abs wheel sensor, the rear wheel sensor you have to leave in place ( you can cut off the wiring)due to the hole in the rear bevel.
Job done. Should take about an hour max.
Remove unit from bike. Replace the front metal pipes where they join the diverter at the headstock/frame with a link pipe thats available from BMW. The rear flexible line you can reconnect straight to the master cylinder.
Remove the ABS relays. Remove the front abs wheel sensor, the rear wheel sensor you have to leave in place ( you can cut off the wiring)due to the hole in the rear bevel.
Job done. Should take about an hour max.
-
boxerscott
- Posts: 3724
- Joined: Sat Apr 21, 2007 5:07 pm
- Location: scottish borders
- Contact:
removing/disabling abs
Cheers Steptoe, message understood but it will take me longer than an hour! Chris
Fiat Panda.
Fiat Scudo (with speedblock, pipe carrier, reversing sensors, reversing camera, tow bar, some new rust and Fake Plumber logo)
started out with nothing, still have most of it left.
Fiat Scudo (with speedblock, pipe carrier, reversing sensors, reversing camera, tow bar, some new rust and Fake Plumber logo)
started out with nothing, still have most of it left.
Steptoe - I think you can only remove the ABS sensor ring from the front wheel on the later bikes can't you - where they have the thin tin one. Earlier bikes (like mine) have a thick plastic one that needs retaining like the rear - I think!Steptoe wrote:Simple removal. At the hydro unit Undo brake lines and disconnect electrical connections.
Remove unit from bike. Replace the front metal pipes where they join the diverter at the headstock/frame with a link pipe thats available from BMW. The rear flexible line you can reconnect straight to the master cylinder.
Remove the ABS relays. Remove the front abs wheel sensor, the rear wheel sensor you have to leave in place ( you can cut off the wiring)due to the hole in the rear bevel.
Job done. Should take about an hour max.
Jason
2002 Black GSA (for random fault analysis and for stealing all my weekends fixing the b'stard)
2000 Black R1100S (for remembering the good old times)
2000 Black R1100S (for remembering the good old times)
I removed the ABS from my R1100s.
Removed all hard pipes and joint bits.
Replaced front system with two braided hoses, stainless fittings, direct from master cylinder to each calliper.
Fitted braided hose to rear and needed a new union and short hard pipe direct to rear master cylinder.
At the ABS unit, unplugged all connections, removed large power wires and taped them all.
Took out ABS pump, sold it on ebay.
Left both the toothed wheels in place.
Removed both ABS sensors, plugged rear diff hole with an old marker felt pen body.
Removed relay from front left electrical box, otherwise ABS panel light stays lit.
Saved about 6Kg in weight.
Lost that annoying clunking noise.
No more flashing brake failure light.
No anxiety about total brake failure due to electrical quirk.
Got easy to bleed brakes.
Got brakes that will work everytime.
Even on ice. So I try to avoid that kind of riding.
Removed all hard pipes and joint bits.
Replaced front system with two braided hoses, stainless fittings, direct from master cylinder to each calliper.
Fitted braided hose to rear and needed a new union and short hard pipe direct to rear master cylinder.
At the ABS unit, unplugged all connections, removed large power wires and taped them all.
Took out ABS pump, sold it on ebay.
Left both the toothed wheels in place.
Removed both ABS sensors, plugged rear diff hole with an old marker felt pen body.
Removed relay from front left electrical box, otherwise ABS panel light stays lit.
Saved about 6Kg in weight.
Lost that annoying clunking noise.
No more flashing brake failure light.
No anxiety about total brake failure due to electrical quirk.
Got easy to bleed brakes.
Got brakes that will work everytime.
Even on ice. So I try to avoid that kind of riding.
Oyster. 1999 R1100S. Almost original.