Changing brake pads

rocksteady · Post by **rocksteady** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 7:29 am

I'll be replacing the rear brake pads soon. My Hayes manual doesn't show the type of brake caliper i have. It's the same i have seen on several other R1100's. Any advice on how to take out the old pads and replace them?

YouTube · Post by **Paul** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 8:42 am

this is what you do:

1) remove the caliper by undoing the two retaining bolts
2) ensure that the old brake pads are pushed back into the caliper as far as they will go
3) remove the spring clip (5), split pin (1) and drift out the retaining pin (2) as shown inthe diagram below

4) drop out old pads, clean off excessive brake dust and crud from caliper
5) pop in new pads
6) reassembly is reverse of disassembly ((c) Haynes 1957-2007)
6.5) tightening torque for the brake caliper bolts is 40Nm. don't exceed this because the mount on the rear wheel drive is made from that special BMW alloy of aluminium and low fat soft cheese.
7) don't forget to pump the rear brake until it bites on the disc again before riding off.

There you go. Robert is your mother's brother!

Paul

timbox2 · Post by **timbox2** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 8:59 am

Whats stamped on the outside and inside of calipers ie: Brembo, or BMW, mind you think they are all pretty similar.

Have a look at this

timbox2 · Post by **timbox2** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 9:00 am

Paul wrote:this is what you do:

1) remove the caliper by undoing the two retaining bolts
2) ensure that the old brake pads are pushed back into the caliper as far as they will go
3) remove the spring clip (5), split pin (1) and drift out the retaining pin (2) as shown inthe diagram below

4) drop out old pads, clean off excessive brake dust and crud from caliper
5) pop in new pads
6) reassembly is reverse of disassembly ((c) Haynes 1957-2007)
6.5) tightening torque for the brake caliper bolts is 40Nm. don't exceed this because the mount on the rear wheel drive is made from that special BMW alloy of aluminium and low fat soft cheese.
7) don't forget to pump the rear brake until it bites on the disc again before riding off.

There you go. Robert is your mother's brother!

Paul

Ahh you beat me

oyster · Post by **oyster** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 11:56 am

Just remember; having taken out the R clip, the retaining pin exits the calliper inboard.

Boxered · Post by **Boxered** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 1:15 pm

Also, remember to smear some copperslip on the rear of the pads to stop them squeeling. I always very carefully put some on the side edges too, this enables easy removal next time around.

Steve

chobbler · Post by **chobbler** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 6:46 pm

That rear calliper slides on two pins, as your pistons are on one side only. Always pays to grease these pins a little bit. If the pins rust the brake gets grabby and the pad on the piston side wears out ahead of the other "fixed" side.

chobbler · Post by **chobbler** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 6:49 pm

...I use that moly paste you would use on the clutch spline, just in case it gets hot.

rocksteady · Post by **rocksteady** » Sun Sep 02, 2007 8:15 pm

Thanks very much for all the info guys, that's brilliant. I thought I was more or less on track, but being brakes I wanted to double check things before I started wielding the spanners. I have a tub of of high melting point copper grease so i'll smear the back of the pads with that.

Thanks again for the help

bfisher · Post by **bfisher** » Sun Jun 05, 2016 8:26 am

Guys,

Can anyone just verify the location of the clip/spring which appears to be item 5 from the schematics... have i got it correct as per image as it just doesn't seem right (i.e. it seems very loose & doesn't appear to do much if anything at all). See image on the URL below.

Brad

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP ... 90ZTdYdTNB

tanneman · Post by **tanneman** » Sun Jun 05, 2016 8:39 am

That just keeps some tension on the pads so it doesn't vibrate or bind on the pin. Be sure to make a note of how it fits, it can be a bit of a fiddle to refit.

bfisher · Post by **bfisher** » Sun Jun 05, 2016 2:36 pm

tanneman wrote:....Be sure to make a note of how it fits, it can be a bit of a fiddle to refit....

Hmm, bit late for that ! Hence clarification appreciated if my picture looks as youd expect.

brad

nab 301 · Post by **nab 301** » Mon Jun 06, 2016 12:51 pm

bfisher wrote:Guys,

Can anyone just verify the location of the clip/spring which appears to be item 5 from the schematics... have i got it correct as per image as it just doesn't seem right (i.e. it seems very loose & doesn't appear to do much if anything at all). See image on the URL below.

Brad

Seems ok to me , it just clips on to the caliper.

RiceBurner · Post by **RiceBurner** » Tue Jun 07, 2016 2:56 pm

Paul wrote:this is what you do:

1) remove the caliper by undoing the two retaining bolts
2) ensure that the old brake pads are pushed back into the caliper as far as they will go
3) remove the spring clip (5), split pin (1) and drift out the retaining pin (2) as shown inthe diagram below

4) drop out old pads, clean off excessive brake dust and crud from caliper
5) pop in new pads
6) reassembly is reverse of disassembly ((c) Haynes 1957-2007)
6.5) tightening torque for the brake caliper bolts is 40Nm. don't exceed this because the mount on the rear wheel drive is made from that special BMW alloy of aluminium and low fat soft cheese.
7) don't forget to pump the rear brake until it bites on the disc again before riding off.

There you go. Robert is your mother's brother!

Paul

Please don't do the bit in bold.

Drop out the pads, THEN clean the pistons up as best you can, THEN push them OUT a bit more, clean again, THEN push them back into the caliper body.

If you push them back into the caliper body before cleaning the piston walls then you'll be pushing crud up against the seals.

bfisher · Post by **bfisher** » Tue Jun 07, 2016 7:14 pm

Thanks all for the replies.. the clip/spring fell out the other day after i rebuilt the calipers some time back (i won't say when as its embarrassingly a long time ago & this would thus highlight how long its taking to get bike back on road (if only it wasn't for the wife & the kids & that thing called work).. Getting close now though.

B