Two questions.
Looked on the searches but could not find my answers but I think I know what it is to no 1.
1 - Mr Haynes shows that the 11S should use spark plugs NGK BCPR7ET but Mr BMW says NGK BKR7EKC.
Whom should I beleive?
2 - I have never checked gap readings on a twin electrode plug before. How do you do it?
Do you check the gaps on both sides of the 'V' or the gap between the V and the central part?
Am I making sense?
Spark Plugs - Gap Checking
Moderators: slparry, Gromit, Paul
Spark Plugs - Gap Checking
No longer a motorcycle owner.
If I take them out I replace them. 
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winger
Winger, are you saying that :
NGK BCPR7ET is for single spark engines
&
NGK BKR7EKC are for twin spark
I have a single and when it was dealer serviced last year they put in NGK BKR7EKC.
My BM manual only mentions NGK BKR7EKC but the Haynes manual says 850/1100 use BCPR7ET and all others use BKR7EKC.
Spark plugs can easily last 2 years if you look after them. On my Fazer 600 I clean and check the gaps twice a year and replace plugs every 2 years. I do this as part of my twice yearly servicing on it. That was before I got the BM and now do less miles on it so maybe the plugs will last even longer!
NGK BCPR7ET is for single spark engines
&
NGK BKR7EKC are for twin spark
I have a single and when it was dealer serviced last year they put in NGK BKR7EKC.
My BM manual only mentions NGK BKR7EKC but the Haynes manual says 850/1100 use BCPR7ET and all others use BKR7EKC.
Spark plugs can easily last 2 years if you look after them. On my Fazer 600 I clean and check the gaps twice a year and replace plugs every 2 years. I do this as part of my twice yearly servicing on it. That was before I got the BM and now do less miles on it so maybe the plugs will last even longer!
No longer a motorcycle owner.
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Boxadog 2000
- Member
- Posts: 1908
- Joined: Wed Feb 18, 2004 8:29 pm
- Location: Looking over hedges
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winger
Winger ... just come out with it.
I replace the plugs in my Fazer every 2 big services which for me is 2 years which equates to approx 16-18K miles (I mainly commute - no touring). Thinking about it some people do this mileage in a year so would understand them being changed yearly.
Don't assume that the gaps are correct straight out of the box. A lot of time they are but not always. It only takes a tiny knock for the electrode to be moved.
After all this I still have not had my questions fully answered.
1 - Mr Haynes shows that the 11S (single and twins) should use spark plugs NGK BCPR7ET but Mr BMW says NGK BKR7EKC.
Whom should I beleive?
I CALLED BMW - BOTH SINGLES AND TWINS USE BKR7EKC AND THE TWINS HAVE YR6LDE AS THE LOWER PLUG.
2 - I have never checked gap readings on a twin electrode plug before. How do you do it?
Do you check the gaps on both sides of the 'V' or the gap between the V and the central part?
Am I making sense?
SPOKE TO 2 BMW SERVICE DEPT's - THEY JUST ASSUME THAT THE GAP IS CORRECT OUT OF THE PACKET, ONE EVEN VISUALLY LOOKS AT THE GAP AND CAN JUDGE FROM THERE. HOW CAN YOU VISUALLY SEE THE GAP BETWEEN 0.8MM WHICH IS WHAT IT SHOULD BE AND 1MM WHICH IS THE SERVICE LIMIT. LOOKS LIKE I AM GOING TO HAVE TO DO SOME MORE INDEPTH INVESTIGATIONS.
Good point - I knew what I was on about.winger wrote:Not sure how to approach this!!! not sure if your taking the piss or not Joe,last two years!!! what fecks time got to do with it.
As you stated for plugs,thats as per the NGK book,and i'll go along with BB and Boxadog.
I replace the plugs in my Fazer every 2 big services which for me is 2 years which equates to approx 16-18K miles (I mainly commute - no touring). Thinking about it some people do this mileage in a year so would understand them being changed yearly.
Don't assume that the gaps are correct straight out of the box. A lot of time they are but not always. It only takes a tiny knock for the electrode to be moved.
After all this I still have not had my questions fully answered.
1 - Mr Haynes shows that the 11S (single and twins) should use spark plugs NGK BCPR7ET but Mr BMW says NGK BKR7EKC.
Whom should I beleive?
I CALLED BMW - BOTH SINGLES AND TWINS USE BKR7EKC AND THE TWINS HAVE YR6LDE AS THE LOWER PLUG.
2 - I have never checked gap readings on a twin electrode plug before. How do you do it?
Do you check the gaps on both sides of the 'V' or the gap between the V and the central part?
Am I making sense?
SPOKE TO 2 BMW SERVICE DEPT's - THEY JUST ASSUME THAT THE GAP IS CORRECT OUT OF THE PACKET, ONE EVEN VISUALLY LOOKS AT THE GAP AND CAN JUDGE FROM THERE. HOW CAN YOU VISUALLY SEE THE GAP BETWEEN 0.8MM WHICH IS WHAT IT SHOULD BE AND 1MM WHICH IS THE SERVICE LIMIT. LOOKS LIKE I AM GOING TO HAVE TO DO SOME MORE INDEPTH INVESTIGATIONS.
No longer a motorcycle owner.
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winger
Single plug bikes:
The BMW book of words suggests Bosch FR 6 LDC is the correct plug. NGK BkR7EKC-N 0.032" gap, according to NGK.
I have fitted hundreds of NGK plugs, mostly 25 years ago, and checked most of the gaps. Once in a while I found one a bit tight, never too large a gap. Almost every plug had a loose threaded top, requiring a nip with pliers. This loosens between services too.
I wire brush clean my plugs and check the gap (not usually required) and have been running these 'new' ones for about 6 000 miles now. No problem.
When new ones are needed, I have some Brisk DOR14LGS to fit. Tops were loose on them too. Cant gap then though!
Any comments on Brisk?
The BMW book of words suggests Bosch FR 6 LDC is the correct plug. NGK BkR7EKC-N 0.032" gap, according to NGK.
I have fitted hundreds of NGK plugs, mostly 25 years ago, and checked most of the gaps. Once in a while I found one a bit tight, never too large a gap. Almost every plug had a loose threaded top, requiring a nip with pliers. This loosens between services too.
I wire brush clean my plugs and check the gap (not usually required) and have been running these 'new' ones for about 6 000 miles now. No problem.
When new ones are needed, I have some Brisk DOR14LGS to fit. Tops were loose on them too. Cant gap then though!
Any comments on Brisk?
Oyster. 1999 R1100S. Almost original.
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Boxadog 2000
- Member
- Posts: 1908
- Joined: Wed Feb 18, 2004 8:29 pm
- Location: Looking over hedges
Go here for war and peace on spark plugs.
THEY DO NOT COME PRE GAPPED.
Oh and dont knock the fecking electrode to decrease the gap go buy the proper tool, must cost all of abot 2 quid.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_suppo ... ml#gapping
Bob
THEY DO NOT COME PRE GAPPED.
Oh and dont knock the fecking electrode to decrease the gap go buy the proper tool, must cost all of abot 2 quid.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_suppo ... ml#gapping
Bob
Spoke to a friend of mine who works for Ford's R&D Dept with his reply below. The techie bit is mainly about four wheels rather than two but here goes :
'Checking the gaps is not as necessary as is used to be in the past. The voltage that is generated is greater than it used to be (condenser and distributor days) and the materials that are used in plugs are of much better quality, on Fords the interval is 100,000 miles now.
Spark plugs come from the manufacturer already set these days and there is no need to set them like you used to, although checking them is good practice. You should note that the tolerances of the gap are greater than they used to be.'
The way to check the gaps is by checking the gap between the two flat bits of both of the electrodes (assuming that all equivilant plugs are twinned). This means that for each spark plug you need to check the gaps in four places.
I tried to find a decent photo of this but couldn't and I would not embarass myself with drawing.
'Checking the gaps is not as necessary as is used to be in the past. The voltage that is generated is greater than it used to be (condenser and distributor days) and the materials that are used in plugs are of much better quality, on Fords the interval is 100,000 miles now.
Spark plugs come from the manufacturer already set these days and there is no need to set them like you used to, although checking them is good practice. You should note that the tolerances of the gap are greater than they used to be.'
The way to check the gaps is by checking the gap between the two flat bits of both of the electrodes (assuming that all equivilant plugs are twinned). This means that for each spark plug you need to check the gaps in four places.
I tried to find a decent photo of this but couldn't and I would not embarass myself with drawing.
No longer a motorcycle owner.