What a pain this plug turned out to be. Made a tool by cutting a 14mm allen key as put forward by the good people on this forum and put this in a ring spanner and tryed and tryed to crack it but no way. Now i am rather strong (to much time lifting weights in the gym) and i could not crack it. So i had to remove the down pipes so i could get my torque wrench on it. It should have been torqued at 55nm, it went at 115nm. Is this what he pay over the odds for at bath road bmw plus after having a general check round found 2 lose engine mount bolts.
ian
gearbox drain plug
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iandunn1100ss
- Posts: 356
- Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2004 9:04 pm
- Location: bristol
gearbox drain plug
Bmw r1100s 02 frost blue,bmw r1100s 03 blue,Yamaha tmax500 03 silver
Honda fireblade rrx 98 orange and bronze,aprilia rs250 01 black and red,aprilia rsv milie 99 black and silver
Honda fireblade rrx 98 orange and bronze,aprilia rs250 01 black and red,aprilia rsv milie 99 black and silver
Hence the need for the oft described 'twatting hammer!' I found many nuts done up to f.t., some also well secured by threadlock solution.
A long time ago, I saw the workshop junior standing on the end of a three foot extention bar, securing the rear wheel nut on a Z1000 in a very expensive London workshop. I could just imagine the poor owner with the on-board tool kit, trying to undo the q.d. spindle nut with the supplied six inch ring spanner, two in the morning, somewhere without light,..................
A long time ago, I saw the workshop junior standing on the end of a three foot extention bar, securing the rear wheel nut on a Z1000 in a very expensive London workshop. I could just imagine the poor owner with the on-board tool kit, trying to undo the q.d. spindle nut with the supplied six inch ring spanner, two in the morning, somewhere without light,..................
Last edited by oyster on Sat Feb 24, 2007 6:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
Oyster. 1999 R1100S. Almost original.
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iandunn1100ss
- Posts: 356
- Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2004 9:04 pm
- Location: bristol
I remember reading a while back that the torque required to undo a nut is much higher than the torque used to tighten it so you will get a much higher reading.
Best not to undo nuts/bolts with torque wrenches as you can damage the wrench. Use a long handled thingy-majig (sorry but the name escapes me at the mo) and use a good whack of a hammer if required. Don't forget a good dollop of WD40 or GT85 before hand with a good soak time.
Always make sure that the socket is sitting securely before hitting it.
A good tip if you have a tight nut (!) is to tighten it a little before undoing it.
Best not to undo nuts/bolts with torque wrenches as you can damage the wrench. Use a long handled thingy-majig (sorry but the name escapes me at the mo) and use a good whack of a hammer if required. Don't forget a good dollop of WD40 or GT85 before hand with a good soak time.
Always make sure that the socket is sitting securely before hitting it.
A good tip if you have a tight nut (!) is to tighten it a little before undoing it.
No longer a motorcycle owner.
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iandunn1100ss
- Posts: 356
- Joined: Mon Aug 16, 2004 9:04 pm
- Location: bristol
joe yes tryed all the above but did not move . the torque wrench was used to measure ,then if you turn the knob so there is no way it will click the torque wrench if fine to undo the bolt with. 115 nm was the last point at which i check before just going for it. your right bolt the undo torque being more than the tightening torque ,but it was still way to tight anyway.
that was just the point i was trying to make (badly).
ian
ps hammer is my very very last thing to try.i am just to old school !!
that was just the point i was trying to make (badly).
ian
ps hammer is my very very last thing to try.i am just to old school !!
Bmw r1100s 02 frost blue,bmw r1100s 03 blue,Yamaha tmax500 03 silver
Honda fireblade rrx 98 orange and bronze,aprilia rs250 01 black and red,aprilia rsv milie 99 black and silver
Honda fireblade rrx 98 orange and bronze,aprilia rs250 01 black and red,aprilia rsv milie 99 black and silver
Hi all,
I had a similar problem when I changed the box oil on my S a couple of weeks ago. I made my own tool by buying a 14/17mm sump plug removal tool from a car bits shop and chopping off the 17mm end with a Dremel. I then used a huge shifter to crack the offending plug with ease. No slippage or loss of nuckle bark.
Cobbster.
I had a similar problem when I changed the box oil on my S a couple of weeks ago. I made my own tool by buying a 14/17mm sump plug removal tool from a car bits shop and chopping off the 17mm end with a Dremel. I then used a huge shifter to crack the offending plug with ease. No slippage or loss of nuckle bark.
Cobbster.
Cobbster, I assume you removed the RH header to accommodate the aforementioned 'huge shifter'?Cobbster wrote:Hi all,
I had a similar problem when I changed the box oil on my S a couple of weeks ago. I made my own tool by buying a 14/17mm sump plug removal tool from a car bits shop and chopping off the 17mm end with a Dremel. I then used a huge shifter to crack the offending plug with ease. No slippage or loss of nuckle bark.
Cobbster.
I have also bought a 14/17mm sump plug tool but would need to cut the bloody thing in half to get it to fit which would rule out the use of the slide bar the tool came with
Nu2
Ride like your life depended on it.
2002 BCR
2002 BCR
Hi Nu2,
Yep, I did cut it in half. I chopped it half way up the hole which meant the tommy bar was redundant hense the use of the shifter. It took a few Dremel cutting wheels to do it but now I have a custom made tool for future use so it was worth the 20 mins grinding time.
The shifter jaws have to open about 19-20 mills which must exert a lot of torque on the 14mm end, thats probably why it cracked so easily.
Cobbster.
Yep, I did cut it in half. I chopped it half way up the hole which meant the tommy bar was redundant hense the use of the shifter. It took a few Dremel cutting wheels to do it but now I have a custom made tool for future use so it was worth the 20 mins grinding time.
The shifter jaws have to open about 19-20 mills which must exert a lot of torque on the 14mm end, thats probably why it cracked so easily.
Cobbster.
