Squeaking para-noia

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Bruno
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Squeaking para-noia

Post by Bruno »

Could anybody enlighten me about any routine servicing that I should be doing to my 1100s rear suspension. Are there any greasing points or parts that should be strippeed and re lubed?
I've checked for play in the paralever pivot bearings, by pushing and pulling at the wheel in vertical and horizontal planes. I've also tried the swinging arm bearings by pushing to and fro on the swinging arm itself. I can find nothing untoward. I don't particularly want to dismantle things. If it ain't broke...
However after I've covered 100 or so miles and the bikes good and warm, there is a squeak from some part of the rear suspension. If you shift body weight whilst waiting at traffic lights or similar, there is a definite creak from the back end somewhere.
I thought it might just be some part of the seat getting hot, but nothing seems loose. The exhaust is standard, and appears secure.

Any brilliant suggestions?

Mark
Why do cheap bikes never end up that way?
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Jason M
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Re: Squeaking para-noia

Post by Jason M »

Bruno wrote:Could anybody enlighten me about any routine servicing that I should be doing to my 1100s rear suspension. Are there any greasing points or parts that should be strippeed and re lubed?
I've checked for play in the paralever pivot bearings, by pushing and pulling at the wheel in vertical and horizontal planes. I've also tried the swinging arm bearings by pushing to and fro on the swinging arm itself. I can find nothing untoward. I don't particularly want to dismantle things. If it ain't broke...
However after I've covered 100 or so miles and the bikes good and warm, there is a squeak from some part of the rear suspension. If you shift body weight whilst waiting at traffic lights or similar, there is a definite creak from the back end somewhere.
I thought it might just be some part of the seat getting hot, but nothing seems loose. The exhaust is standard, and appears secure.

Any brilliant suggestions?

Mark
Alright Mark

Squeeking usually indicates one or other sets of the bearings needs attention IMHO. I changed my paralever ones to try and stop a squeek but ended up changing the swing arm ones too.

They're cheap enough, just a bit of a pain!

Jason
2002 Black GSA (for random fault analysis and for stealing all my weekends fixing the b'stard)
2000 Black R1100S (for remembering the good old times)
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bigblackfalco
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Post by bigblackfalco »

I seem to remember that same thing...only squeaks when it was hot! In the end it was my paralever bearings.
You can try temporary greasing, but in the end the best solution is to replace them.
It's a simple job. You can only buy the bearings from BMW i.e no pattern parts available.
Bailey.
Honda VFR750 FV 1997 Red and dirty, 130K miles.

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cc mac
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Post by cc mac »

Mine used to squeak when hot . This started after 30K plus. It was eventually diagnosed as paralever bearings and replaced by a dealer. It sorted it out and really smoothed out the ride. You could do it cheaper yourself but it is still better than shelling out for chains and sprockets.
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Post by boxerpan »

cc mac wrote: You could do it cheaper yourself but it is still better than shelling out for chains and sprockets.
I'm still not convinced on cost issues alone, let alone the compromises it places on the rear suspension with all that unsprung weight and the power losses turning the drive thru 90 degrees :?
Lloyd

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winger

Post by winger »

Haveing done both i'll take the chain and sprockets everytime!!!,a brand new fresh start for what?? 100 quid!!.
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Gromit
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Post by Gromit »

winger wrote:Haveing done both i'll take the chain and sprockets everytime!!!,a brand new fresh start for what?? 100 quid!!.
Must admit, having owned a couple of chain-drive bikes recently, I can't argue with that.

Sure, I'm a Scottoiler fan, but a well lubed chain will do 25k+ easily these days. I did 14000 miles on my TT600 in a year and only adjusted the chain every time I needed a new rear tyre ie once every 4000 miles.
winger

Post by winger »

I ajusted the chain on the Tiger a week ago,it's been to Le-Mans,North West 200,and the German GP and then onto Bruno and home and thats the first time i've touched it this year.
Me-109
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Post by Me-109 »

winger wrote:...thats the first time i've touched it this year.
Mind you, it was dragging on the floor before I tightened it. :lol:
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Jason M
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Post by Jason M »

Gromit wrote:
winger wrote:Haveing done both i'll take the chain and sprockets everytime!!!,a brand new fresh start for what?? 100 quid!!.
Must admit, having owned a couple of chain-drive bikes recently, I can't argue with that.

Sure, I'm a Scottoiler fan, but a well lubed chain will do 25k+ easily these days. I did 14000 miles on my TT600 in a year and only adjusted the chain every time I needed a new rear tyre ie once every 4000 miles.
Snotoilers :shock: You want a pro-oiler mate http://www.pro-oiler.com/ I've got one on the Fazer and it is a brilliant piece of kit. Works off the speedo and is adjustable from the 'cockpit' on the move via a natty little switch with an lcd
2002 Black GSA (for random fault analysis and for stealing all my weekends fixing the b'stard)
2000 Black R1100S (for remembering the good old times)
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winny2
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chains v shaft

Post by winny2 »

Having spent many years adjusting the chain on a Rickman framed bike which uses eccentric shims either end of the swinging arm........do I mean eccentric or concentric?....oh well, the holes aren't in the middle! a la Ducati except they had the foresight to use a screw device to move the swing arm, (its really quite fun trying to put in shims either side of a bike where if you put one in and then go round the other side of the bike to do the other, the first one drops out), I think I'll take the shaft drive.

John
1998 R1100S
1981 Rickman Predator
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Boxered
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Post by Boxered »

...or , you could use a key'ed(?) spindle ala JMC swingarms,which make chain adj easy from either side of the bike 'cause both eccentric/concentric cams are keyed together with the spindle.

Steve
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Me-109
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Post by Me-109 »

The thing with eccentric adjusters is that they affect ride height as well adjusting wheelbase whilst tensioning a chain. The vertical distance of the top of the rear sprocket in relation to the swingarm centreline is also varied through twiddling the eccentric adjusters. This means that the chain angle alters which in turn affects rear suspension.

Thus ruining billions of Yen spent on redesigning a 5mm longer swingarm! :wink:
cc mac
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Post by cc mac »

As an ex despatch rider I prefer shaft. I was looking at a Fireblade a few weeks ago with chain lube caked around the rear of the bike. No thanks. I admit chain is more efficient, but if I was after maximum horsepower I would have bought a Jap sports bike.
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Ade B
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Post by Ade B »

Seem to be getting the dreaded creak from the rear end. It seems to be coming from the swing arm pivot (with a warm engine) so could be pivot or shock...

Can't remember if we greased the swingarm bearings when we put it back together?? Any recollection Jason?

Will have a good rear end wiggle this weekend and see if I can pinpoint it..

Any offers of warm garage space over the next weekends? I'm stock piling jobs and could do with doing 'em before something else falls off.


Ade.
2000 R1100S Sport
1980 Vespa P125X
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