Binding brake, rather urgent help required

Chamelespoon · Post by **Chamelespoon** » Thu Jun 22, 2006 11:10 pm

Okay, I've done a search both here an on the Pelican, and I'm pretty sure what I've encountered is a common problem... but I've been unable to fix it so far.

I replaced the standard BMW rear pads with some EBC organic jobs about 2 months ago, and have since been on a 2000-mile trip to France and Switzerland. Just got back and slapped the bike in for its MOT... and it failed, in part due to a binding rear brake.

Ripped it all apart this evening, and found the pads aren't as free as the BMW ones I took out, so filed down the tab at the opposite end to the pin and now it fits more freely (only done the piston-side pad, mind, but it slides like the BMW one now and doesn't foul the carrier). However, after a "once round the block" the rear disc was hot to the touch (I could keep my hand on it, so not blistering), so I'm guessing it's still binding?

Caliper is clean as a whistle, although I noticed the front of the two pistons (non-EVO Brembo caliper) is harder to push in than the rear one. Is that normal?

Now for the stickler: BMW themselves won't touch the caliper to do a brake service, as I stripped the thread (as I mentioned a while back) in the carrier, and although it will tighten it won't tighten to specs. So I'm left to sort this myself before the 1st July... as that's when the MOT runs out.

The bike has ABS, and I've never bled a brake system in my life, nor do I have any special tools for that job. I might be able to convince Pidcocks to bleed it if required, though, while the bike's in to have the rear swingarm bearing adjusted (the other part of the MOT failure).

So... HELP?!

Cheers lads,

Rob.

oyster · Post by **oyster** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 6:06 am

With caliper in hand, push the pistons in till they are flush with the body. Clean the body and bellows with brake fluid on a rag. Pump the pistons out using the brake lever about one cm. Repeat above several times. Corrosion develops on the piston face and needs polishing off. Dont get any contamination on the pads or disc. Clean the whole lot with brake cleaner aerosol when happy with the action. Reassemble.

Jason M · Post by **Jason M** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 8:57 am

Rob - are you sure the little metal pressure plate is in correctly? The one that sits above the pads in the recess at the top of the caliper. I've had problems with this before. It has an arrow on it that MUST be pointing towards the front of the bike. My rear brake was binding till I put the plate back in the right way round

To get it through the MOT I MIGHT take the plate out just just for a moment. Try the caliper without the plate fitted and see if that makes a difference.

Good Luck

Jason

Chamelespoon · Post by **Chamelespoon** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 10:58 am

Jason: Now you mention it, I think I installed that incorrectly when I put the EBCs in the first time, and spend a while last night trying to get the little bugger in properly. I'll whip it out tonight and see if that helps any. It's definitely in the right way round now, but that's not to stay it isn't still causing problems.

Oyster: I've given them a thorough clean several times, but while I have them open tonight I'll give it yet another go.

One thing that I am curious about, though: are the pistons supposed to push in with roughly equal force? I find pushing the piston closest to the front of the bike quite a bit harder than the other one. They both slide smoothly, it just requires quite a bit more shove. Is this normal, or could that be part of the problem?

Thanks again,

Rob.

bigblackfalco · Post by **bigblackfalco** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 12:07 pm

Chamelespoon wrote:Jason: Now you mention it, I think I installed that incorrectly when I put the EBCs in the first time, and spend a while last night trying to get the little bugger in properly. I'll whip it out tonight and see if that helps any. It's definitely in the right way round now, but that's not to stay it isn't still causing problems.

Oyster: I've given them a thorough clean several times, but while I have them open tonight I'll give it yet another go.

One thing that I am curious about, though: are the pistons supposed to push in with roughly equal force? I find pushing the piston closest to the front of the bike quite a bit harder than the other one. They both slide smoothly, it just requires quite a bit more shove. Is this normal, or could that be part of the problem?
Thanks again,

Rob.

Both pistons should require the same pressure.I think a rebuild kit would solve your problems.
Bailey.

Chamelespoon · Post by **Chamelespoon** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 3:02 pm

Cheers, Bailey. I have all fingers and toes crossed that Pidcocks can repair the carrier thread tomorrow, so they'll then be able to service the calliper... unfortunately it's getting to the point where time is the enemy rather than money.

Well, to a point; I still don't fancy forking out £189 + fitting for a new calliper because of a simple stripped thread... but MOT is looming.

Thanks again,

Rob.

PBBoxer · Post by **PBBoxer** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 3:09 pm

What calipers are they? I saw a couple on ebay for 75 quid???

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-R1100S-R1100- ... dZViewItem

PBBoxer · Post by **PBBoxer** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 3:12 pm

ok, bugger, theyre front ones. oops, but might be worth contacting seller and asking if he has a rear?

Jason M · Post by **Jason M** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 3:19 pm

Chamelespoon wrote:Cheers, Bailey. I have all fingers and toes crossed that Pidcocks can repair the carrier thread tomorrow, so they'll then be able to service the calliper... unfortunately it's getting to the point where time is the enemy rather than money.

Well, to a point; I still don't fancy forking out £189 + fitting for a new calliper because of a simple stripped thread... but MOT is looming.

Thanks again,

Rob.

Rob - do you know I've done the EXACT same thing and stripped the thread on the carrier - I had a spare caliper that I have put on. If you get a chance, see if you can remove the caliper from the carrier. There is a small bolt holding one side on, and there may be another in the other but it is inside the gaiter. I can give/lend/sell you another rear caliper but the carrier is buggered

Might be a cheaper option to get a 2nd hand carrier though if that is possible

oyster · Post by **oyster** » Fri Jun 23, 2006 3:28 pm

Sounds like one of the pistons is dirty; redo the cleaning operation. They should both go in and out easily.
Found this that may help: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-R1100S-R1100- ... dZViewItem

Chamelespoon · Post by **Chamelespoon** » Mon Jun 26, 2006 11:45 am

Well, thanks for all the help, guys. After y'all confirmed the caliper needed a thorough strip-down and service I handed it to Pidcock's and asked them to do it. Next time I'll have a go myself; this time, I figured I'd pay for them to do it.

All well and good (I think, they haven't actually done it yet), except it turns out the swingarm bearings didn't just "need an adjustment". They're nadgered, and the mech can't get them out - or not in one piece, anyway.

So I'm rediscovering the lack of public transport in this area and how to scab a lift off a friend for the rest of this week (hopefully not longer), while Pidcock's try to fix it during any "free" time they have (first chance to book it in was some time in August!).

Think I'm gonna get the MOT re-done sometime around Christmas, too (even if I have 6 months left on it) - that way when it comes to renewal time I might actually be able to get stuff fixed in time.

Well, the stuff I can't do myself, anyway.

So thanks again; sorry I didn't have any good news to report.

Chamelespoon · Post by **Chamelespoon** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 3:21 pm

Just as a quick update, bike has just passed its MOT... after Pidcocks spent 7.5 hours today fixing it! So come Saturday (earliest I can get to them) I'll be riding again, with some shiny new swingarm bearings, a properly working rear brake, and a seriously light wallet...

--
Rob.

Jason M · Post by **Jason M** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 4:00 pm

Chamelespoon wrote:Just as a quick update, bike has just passed its MOT... after Pidcocks spent 7.5 hours today fixing it! So come Saturday (earliest I can get to them) I'll be riding again, with some shiny new swingarm bearings, a properly working rear brake, and a seriously light wallet...
--
Rob.

7.5 hours

At what rate (dare I ask?) They really really do take the PISS

Chamelespoon · Post by **Chamelespoon** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 11:03 pm

Jason M wrote:7.5 hours At what rate (dare I ask?) They really really do take the PISS

To be fair to them, the mech was having some trouble getting the bearing out when I spoke to him in the workshop last Saturday (as he was trying to show me the "click" in the adjusted swingarm bearings).

Thankfully, they're only charging me for 4 hours labour... but total bill (for swingarm bearings and pivot, I think, the thread repair on the rear caliper and a brake service on it, and an MOT) came to £314. I'll have a look at the breakdown when I pick the bike up tomorrow.

Could've been worse, but I have it booked in for its 24K service next month, which I was told 6K miles ago is a biggy and should budget for around £300.

Ah well, I'm not gonna be silly like Dave in the other thread and cut out the beer, but I'll not be eating this month.

--
Rob.

Nero · Post by **Nero** » Fri Jun 30, 2006 11:38 am

Chamelespoon wrote:...Could've been worse, but I have it booked in for its 24K service next month, which I was told 6K miles ago is a biggy and should budget for around £300.

Just had the 18k service, Vines also tell me the same with the 24k service, when I asked for a rough figure I was quoted £470

Er, I don't think so. The merits of keeping a full BMW service history stamped in the service book is a way too costly affair

Nero

www.boxertrix.com

Binding brake, rather urgent help required

Binding brake, rather urgent help required

Re: Binding brake, rather urgent help required