Hi there
I tried the search function but couldn't really find anything satisfactory so I'm gonna ask a collective question.
We could make this a sticky
Ok
I know of 3 sensors on the bike which relate to the smooth running of the bike's engine management system
Hall sensor (no idea what that does)
Throttle position sensor
oxygen sensor
Can anyone describe in detail or post a link that describes their purpose and the symptoms of them failing?
ie I suspect the throttle position sensor may be playing up but I'm not sure.
Thanks for your time.
Hall sensors monitor the position of the crankshaft in order for the timing to work accurately. I think. Mine packed in at 32k and it manifests itself by cutting out when the engine is warm. The fuel pump kicks in, the engine turns over but it won't start. It might start again when the engine cools down but it will cut out again when hot. This is what happened to mine. It cost about £200 at a dealer, but could probably be sorted a lot cheaper if you know someone who knows these bikes better than I do.
Yep - it's just a tiny sensor on a plate around the end of the crank behind the bottom pully wheel for the alternator. It's stiiting a few inches behind that plastic cover on the front of the engine. I was riding with someone accross the US when the sensor on his 1100GS failed, though his failed permanently 'live' so when the ignition was turned on there were sparks everywhere. Couldn't work out WHAT the problem was at the side of the road. A US dealer replaced it with one from an S. When I go on along journey I carry a spare just in case
Anyone else had a Hall sensor go wrong? I am wondering if the occasional 'sneeze' my bike does when it is warm at low revs may be this unit. How tricky is it to fit? Does the bike require retiming after fitting a new unit, or is it pegged so, old out new in to same spot?
oyster wrote:Anyone else had a Hall sensor go wrong? I am wondering if the occasional 'sneeze' my bike does when it is warm at low revs may be this unit. How tricky is it to fit? Does the bike require retiming after fitting a new unit, or is it pegged so, old out new in to same spot?
All you have to do is remove that plastic front engine cover, rotate the alternator belt off, remove the pully wheel and there it is - it's an assembly on a small plate - a couple of little bolts hold it on I think - no retiming issues. Fitting is reverse etc... An hour at the absolute max I would say.
oyster wrote:thanks Jason.
Sounds straightforward. Now where have they hidden the Hall sensor feed wire connector plug?
I've only dismantled one from a spare engine I had - there is a small cable that exits from the top left hand side of the engine cover I think - you might be able to see it with a torch, or locate it if the covers are off. I must admit I don't know exactly where it connects, but the wire attached to the sensor isn't that long so it must be close by... Looks like I was wrong about the plug and play aspect as well. The fixings are in 'slots' allowing the sensor to be rotated/adjusted slightly so it must have to be set correctly - probably just put the engine at TDC and rotate till you get a current or something simple though
As for the TPS failing - I'm not sure what the symptoms of that would be - I would imagine it would either fail completely or not at all - it's only a small potentiometer isn't it? . I dismantled my throttle body when the return spring snapped, and at first I didn't fit the TPS back in EXACTLY the same spot as it had been - the engine did run worse (or it may have just been my imagination) but obviously the fueling wouldn't be quite right if it thought the throttle was not where it actually was. I still rode it for a few months before having the nerve to stick a paper clip into it and adjust it properly though:oops: When it was wrong it felt a bit rough and didn't idle very well. I've got a spare in the garage I think if you want to try another and see if it makes any difference
Smeegles
If it is the TPS playing up,i would be tempted tp take it apart and look for any signs of tracking/arcing.A visual inspection on the condition of the internals to make sure nothing obvious is amiss.Then a good clean using a electrical contact spray.I take it you have checked the ignition side of things,signs of HT leads arcing etc etc.If everything looks OK and still dont cure your problem,then swop TPS with a known good one as jason has stated and see if that works.I assume you have checked and rechecked the fuel delivery side of things,trapped pipes,fuel filter,tank vent etc.Does the rear drive speed sensor give information to ECU concerning speed with throttle position/gear position?
gus
Yep.Is the black plastic item bolted into the top of the rear drive.This has been known to cause issues relating to speedos going hay wire.It may be worth checking out if other things dont solve the problem.I dont think this will be your cause of problem,but there is a air pressure sensor in the airbox too.
good luck in finding the cause
gus
