.
Plus Gas overnight and then mole grips with a little applied heat the next day might just work.
If not follow the drilling-out post above. The angle and placement of the stud is not absolutely critical as long as it goes through the hole in the header flange. After all - the only job it has to do is to hold the header tightly against the gasket.
Good Luck!!
Sandbar
Sheared Exhaust Stud in Cylinder Head
Moderators: slparry, Gromit, Paul
Geof
Mine were seized solid and no amount of plus gas, heat, hammering, welding on of nuts, drilling etc. would budge them.
Removed head in the end (30 minute job) and a engine machine shop next to the Ace Cafe machined out the stud and inserted helecoil. Taking the head off is very easy. (p.s. I had to heat the timing sprocket nut to soften the loc-tite - it was locked solid). Should have done this at the start. It would have saved a lot of time.
Head gasket 20 quid
machining + helicol = 40 quid each (80 quid total for both studs)
PITA, but there you go. Let me know if you want any pics/more info.
Mine were seized solid and no amount of plus gas, heat, hammering, welding on of nuts, drilling etc. would budge them.
Removed head in the end (30 minute job) and a engine machine shop next to the Ace Cafe machined out the stud and inserted helecoil. Taking the head off is very easy. (p.s. I had to heat the timing sprocket nut to soften the loc-tite - it was locked solid). Should have done this at the start. It would have saved a lot of time.
Head gasket 20 quid
machining + helicol = 40 quid each (80 quid total for both studs)
PITA, but there you go. Let me know if you want any pics/more info.
BMW R1100S (Black)
Suzuki TL1000S (Red)
Suzuki TL1000S (Red)
broken stud
Ive not used it myself but if you go to a good motor factors they sell a can of spray that freezes the stud which shrinks it in the hole and makes it easier to remove with mole grips etc.
Im told it works even better if you can heat up the area around the stud before spraying the stud next.
I'll try to find the brand name for you.
In the past drilling out the stud was nearly the only solution,if you can centerpot the head and use slightly bigger drills till you get there and then clean with a new tap.
you will need really good drill bits cheap ones can do a lot of damage to you and the bike.
ian
Im told it works even better if you can heat up the area around the stud before spraying the stud next.
I'll try to find the brand name for you.
In the past drilling out the stud was nearly the only solution,if you can centerpot the head and use slightly bigger drills till you get there and then clean with a new tap.
you will need really good drill bits cheap ones can do a lot of damage to you and the bike.
ian