Oil spec question
Moderators: slparry, Gromit, Paul
Oil spec question
I have recently aquired some Fuchs Titan supersyn 5W-40 at a very advantageous price on the basis that it will go in one of my vehicles. Can anyone here unravel this spec for me ; ACEA A3/B3/B4 API CF/SJ then goes on to list car manufacturers approvals from Merc, Ford and VW. I have a feeling it may be for diesel engines, any confirmation ?
Lloyd
It's not how fast you ride, it's how you ride fast.
Light travels faster than sound. That's why some people appear
bright until you hear them speak.
It's not how fast you ride, it's how you ride fast.
Light travels faster than sound. That's why some people appear
bright until you hear them speak.
Lloyd
API CF/SJ is the bit you're looking for.
BMW specs API SF, SG, SH & CD or CE
My understanding is that the farther along the alphabet you go with the S* the better the spec. Not sure about the CD or CE bit though, this may be a problem?
Lots of arguments over spec but some seem to think that the higher spec stuff is too slippy for the boxer engine... not sure if that's possible.
5W 40 is obviously the temperature range. If I recall correctly 10W 40 is for -20 to 20 C but 20W 50 is a better bet as this is -10 to +30 C
Fuchs is Silkolene isn't it? If so, the semi-synth motorcycle stuff is the best oil I've tried in mine so far and that was SJ sepc.
That's probably confused the situation even more.
Adam
API CF/SJ is the bit you're looking for.
BMW specs API SF, SG, SH & CD or CE
My understanding is that the farther along the alphabet you go with the S* the better the spec. Not sure about the CD or CE bit though, this may be a problem?
Lots of arguments over spec but some seem to think that the higher spec stuff is too slippy for the boxer engine... not sure if that's possible.
5W 40 is obviously the temperature range. If I recall correctly 10W 40 is for -20 to 20 C but 20W 50 is a better bet as this is -10 to +30 C
Fuchs is Silkolene isn't it? If so, the semi-synth motorcycle stuff is the best oil I've tried in mine so far and that was SJ sepc.
That's probably confused the situation even more.
Adam
Forgive me father for I have sinned... ex S owner moved onto pastures new with four cylinders and a chain... and back to a twin, albeit in a V.
Lloyd
Take a look at this: http://api-ep.api.org/filelibrary/Guidechart2002.pdf
SJ exceeds and can be used in place of SF, SG and SH.
CF does appear to be for off-road diesels (still, the S has been accused of being a bit of a tractor
) but it can be used in place of CD.
I can't see any problems, especially as it's fully synthetic, but I'll investigate further.
Adam
Take a look at this: http://api-ep.api.org/filelibrary/Guidechart2002.pdf
SJ exceeds and can be used in place of SF, SG and SH.
CF does appear to be for off-road diesels (still, the S has been accused of being a bit of a tractor
) but it can be used in place of CD.I can't see any problems, especially as it's fully synthetic, but I'll investigate further.
Adam
Forgive me father for I have sinned... ex S owner moved onto pastures new with four cylinders and a chain... and back to a twin, albeit in a V.
Lloyd
Various answers here
Basically, it would seem that it's over spec but won't be a problem on engines with a few miles on.
The problem I can see is the temperature range. Taken from the S manual:
10W 40 works from -20 to +20
20W 50 works from -10 to +30 and up
15W 50 works from -15 to +30 and up
5W X Special oils cover the whole range, -20 to +30, but you need the 'X' after 5W.
I can't find the temp range for 5W 40 but I'd hazard a guess that it's thinner than 10W 40 and so not suitable in the S motor.
EDIT: Confusion reigns... just lifted from the Castrol site: Technical Specifications SAE 5W-40 (can be used where 10W-40 is advised).
Adam
Various answers here
Basically, it would seem that it's over spec but won't be a problem on engines with a few miles on.
The problem I can see is the temperature range. Taken from the S manual:
10W 40 works from -20 to +20
20W 50 works from -10 to +30 and up
15W 50 works from -15 to +30 and up
5W X Special oils cover the whole range, -20 to +30, but you need the 'X' after 5W.
I can't find the temp range for 5W 40 but I'd hazard a guess that it's thinner than 10W 40 and so not suitable in the S motor.
EDIT: Confusion reigns... just lifted from the Castrol site: Technical Specifications SAE 5W-40 (can be used where 10W-40 is advised).
Adam
Last edited by adamski49 on Tue May 24, 2005 11:18 am, edited 1 time in total.
Forgive me father for I have sinned... ex S owner moved onto pastures new with four cylinders and a chain... and back to a twin, albeit in a V.
Interesting thread this!! This is not a hijack - just an attempt to widen the scope.boxerpan wrote:Fuchs = Silcolene, you are correct.
It would be useful to get some absolute knowledge (not rumour
) about who produces the oils and who uses refiltered oils. Also, of the makers who produce 'fresh' oil how many of them refine the product themselves. In the 70's, one of the Jap manufacturers 'own brand' oils were very definitely refiltered and re-refined. One or two of the popular 'race' type oil companies started off that way as well. Some years ago ( I'm not willing to say how many
) a builder of racing engines told me that he would not use anything other than Shell, BP, Esso and Texaco because they were the only people who were actually doing the job, and all the others were using raw materials sold to them by the big 4. His theory was that there was no way that they were going to sell off their best stuff and then use the lower quality for their own products.On the other hand, not that many years ago, apparently Esso decided that they wanted a piece of the budget (cheap) oils market and rather than create and build up a new name they went out and bought Comma.
Effectively the oils marketed through the Comma name are as near as dammit the same as with the Esso name. I was told that by a Comma rep. - but of course he would say that wouldn't he??
We need the truth - we need the facts
Sandbar
www.sandbarcomposites.co.uk
Comma oil
I normally buy the Motul 10W40 semi synth from Hein Gerike for my S -£25 for 5 lites inc a free oil filter (if they have one).
Today I noticed my local car shop were selling Comma semi synth 10-40 for £15 for 5 litres.
I normally do an oil change every 3000 miles so maybe the Comma stuff would be OK ?
Michael
Today I noticed my local car shop were selling Comma semi synth 10-40 for £15 for 5 litres.
I normally do an oil change every 3000 miles so maybe the Comma stuff would be OK ?
Michael
I would have no fear of using a Comma oil. For a long time I used Comma 'Eurodiesel' (which is a semi synthetic 10-40) in all the vans and diesel cars. I would jump at it still if I could get it at a reasonable price!!
I guess if you are into the specifications (I am not - I think (IMHO) that in engines of such a wide operating heat range it is a load of b*ll*cks) then as long as the Comma oil you are looking at meets your requirements - then go for it.
Personally on my bikes, I like to see the highest viscosity rating. The best oil (again IMHO) I have ever used was Selenia HPX 10-60 fully synthetic. Known affectionately by the afore mentioned mechanics as 'superglue'. Once the Integrale boys started using it all the time, it got too expensive. Such is life
Sandbar
I guess if you are into the specifications (I am not - I think (IMHO) that in engines of such a wide operating heat range it is a load of b*ll*cks) then as long as the Comma oil you are looking at meets your requirements - then go for it.
Personally on my bikes, I like to see the highest viscosity rating. The best oil (again IMHO) I have ever used was Selenia HPX 10-60 fully synthetic. Known affectionately by the afore mentioned mechanics as 'superglue'. Once the Integrale boys started using it all the time, it got too expensive. Such is life
Sandbar
CF/SG means that it is primarily meant as a diesel oil as the C* comes before the S*. C = compression ignition - any diesel and S = spark ignition - any petrol. The 5 W 40 means that it acts like a "thin" 5 at low teperatures (that is good) and a thicker 40 when hot. It will still be thicker when cool but not as thick as a strait 40 oil, this means that it will lubricate much faster on startup.
I use 5W40 fully sysnthetic in the wifes S with 26k miles on it but living here in the south od France I would prefer a 50 weight when hot. I only use semi synth in mine as it has not yet covered enough miles.
I use 75W90 synthetic in the gearbox on both bikes as it makes loads of difference to the feel of the bike.
Here in France I pay 16 euros (£10.50) for 5 litres of fully synthetic and anyone passing through is welcome to change their oil on the way past using my garage and tools if they wish.
I use 5W40 fully sysnthetic in the wifes S with 26k miles on it but living here in the south od France I would prefer a 50 weight when hot. I only use semi synth in mine as it has not yet covered enough miles.
I use 75W90 synthetic in the gearbox on both bikes as it makes loads of difference to the feel of the bike.
Here in France I pay 16 euros (£10.50) for 5 litres of fully synthetic and anyone passing through is welcome to change their oil on the way past using my garage and tools if they wish.
2004 Silver (mine)
2001 Silver/Manderin (hers)
Visiting France? Read my blog on http://bikesindordogne.blogspot.com
2001 Silver/Manderin (hers)
Visiting France? Read my blog on http://bikesindordogne.blogspot.com
Another thumbs up from me re Comma oils - we use their fully synthetic Diesel oil in the c*r and it runs smooth as you like. I also used to use their Syner-Z fully synth in my Caterham which is in a higher state of tune than the 1100S (150bhp out of 1.6litres) - it's good oil and for the price is excellent value.
Just because it doesn't have 'Mobil 1' etc on the bottle doesn't mean it's not worth buying.
Just because it doesn't have 'Mobil 1' etc on the bottle doesn't mean it's not worth buying.