Higher bars for R1100s ?

geoffo · Post by **geoffo** » Sun Jul 13, 2014 10:54 am

Hi All,
I went for my first long ride on a recently acquired R1100s yesterday and was very impressed!
Just one niggle ....I developed neck ache at around 70miles or so.

I have always been used to more naked/roadster style bikes with a more upright riding position so the more sporty forward lean seems to produce neck ache!
Any thoughts on higher bar options?
(p.s. my bars are under the yoke)

Geoffo.

Al · Post by Al » Sun Jul 13, 2014 12:38 pm

Cheapest option is to put them on top of the yokes, I have done that and you can notice the difference, you will probably need longer hoses but if you get the Rapid Dog barbacks which move the bars up and back you will need them anyway. Rapid dog has just said he is doing a batch now, just do a search for barbacks, not cheap but several on here like them.

Al.

ned1 · Post by **ned1** » Sun Jul 13, 2014 2:40 pm

This is what Al means, above the yokes .....................
Difference between normal and above from the front

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If your bike is ABS you should be ok with the brake lines.

Ned

geoffo · Post by **geoffo** » Sun Jul 13, 2014 4:02 pm

Hey that looks like a comfortable bar height!
Any links to guide me on how to do it?

Geoffo.

tanneman · Post by **tanneman** » Sun Jul 13, 2014 8:52 pm

I just returned from a trip to Garmish on the 11S. I had the thought that I may suffer from some pain but no. In the traffic I had to sit up but once the road opened up I pushed my bum back on the seat (I have a seat hump plastic cover BMW issue), moved my the ball of my feet on the pegs and tucked my elbows in with the tips of my fingers on the bars. Perfect for a speedy run on the French and German roads where there is little traffic. Not so ideal in the UK but I can live with it. So to help you have a look at the diagram.

Make sure the bike is supported on a stand and a jack of some sort under the front of the engine (ie bike is level). Remove lock ring no2.

Loosen no3 at the front of the upper fork cross brace (proper name) and

no2 and no3 at the back and under the upper fork brace.

Compress the stanchion to remove it from the upper fork brace. Free the handlebar assembly and support it or let it dangle off the the lines. Push the stanchion through the upper fork brace by about an inch and mount the handlebar assembly on top of the upper fork brace. Fit the lock ring and make sure it engages flush with the handlebar before tightening no3 screw at the front of the upper fork brace. Position the handlebar to your liking and tighten no2 screw on the handlebar. You can brace the 2 handlebars with a metal rod machined to fit in the place of no3 screw. That would be my choice. Note that you would need a reasonable bit of slack in the brake lines to do this. Once done move the handlebars lock to lock and check for binding of the electrical and throttle cables. You may need to snap a few tie wraps to loosen the cables.

tanneman · Post by **tanneman** » Sun Jul 13, 2014 9:07 pm

It should look like this

Someone on here or pelican machined a bar to fit between the handlebars when mounted above the upper cross brace and used it as a gps mount.

Al · Post by Al » Mon Jul 14, 2014 10:09 pm

I have mine positioned so that the rear edge of the bars is parrallel to the rear edge of the yoke and have no fouling issues, I needed new brakelines and had them made 40mm longer and had a seperate line to each caliper, I have a curved stainless bar for bracing, as Tanneman said above you cannot use the lockscrew but have yet to fit it, the mot man was happy about the security of the bars as it is at the moment so may not bother.

Al