I have finally got around to changing my rear indicators, old sticky out ones have gone, new mini jobs (wierd size bulb, not led!) fit snug above the number plate under the silencers. The wiring has to follow the number plate light wire, down between the silencers. So I only want to use three or less wires, one each power to the indicators and a common earth (brown wire). I checked with a multimeter; the two brown wires are common and either is common with the frame earth. Then I found so are the two different supply feeds, they are common to each other and to frame earth as well. This suggests that the whole lot is earthed out ( ignition off). What I was hoping to determine was, can I just run the two supplies down to the indicators and find a common earth point under the silencer. Is there anyone with the answers out there?
Thanks!
Just operate the indicator and measure which one flicks between 12v and zero ie flashes. Then do the other side and measure that as well. Connect the black wire of the multimeter to frame.
If you et really stuck I have the electrical wirin for the 1150S which I would hazard a guese is the same as the 1100S
The only problem with using the frame as earth is that due to corrosion you might get a resistance build up and then your indicators wouldn't work properly. Vehicle electrics are an odd thing and electrical current will always find the easiest way to earth, which depending on the wiring could be through another bulb or other component. You could end up with the tail light flashing along with the indicators or something equally bizarre.
Delpel wrote:Just operate the indicator and measure which one flicks between 12v and zero ie flashes. Then do the other side and measure that as well. Connect the black wire of the multimeter to frame.
If you et really stuck I have the electrical wirin for the 1150S which I would hazard a guese is the same as the 1100S
Thanks all for the information. I used a pair of wires, one each for the indicators and picked up the common earth from the number plate light. I figure that although the indicators draw a relatively high current, they do go off as much as they are on, so will not cook the thin wire too much. And it all works fine!