Help! 1150rt brake pads.

[Steve1200S]

The rear pads on my RT are down to the metal, I've bought some pads but fek me they're hard to fit. I can't get the pistons in at all, I can move one then the other by hand easily (so not seized), but getting them to move in together is near impossible! Is their a trick with the linked abs system I'm missing?

I appreciate anny help offered, I need to be back on the road tomorrow....

Cheers,
Steve.

[Hayden]

The fluid needs somewhere to go, are you trying to move the pistols with the reservoir cap on or off? Cap of can make the slight difference you need to move both together

[Blackal]

This might sound daft, but...........

It's not a floating caliper? (only one side has movable pistons).

Googled it - I think it is

Al

[Steve1200S]

This might sound daft, but...........

It's not a floating caliper? (only one side has movable pistons).

Googled it - I think it is

Al

True, it has 2 pots on the one side though.

[Steve1200S]

I've put the old pads back in for now, one has a 1/2 mm slither on it, the other has a good mm on it, but should last until I get a proper tool to do the job.

I thought about taking the res cap off, but I wasnt sure how much that would help with the linked ABS, the pedal and res are on a different circuit to the controller and caliper I think.....?? Gues other option is to crack the bleed nipple and push the pistons out....

[DaveH]

Crack the blkeed nipple a bit as you push the pistons back in so the fluid escapes.

[slparry]

as dave say's loosen the bleed nipple a little, the fluid will be stopping the pistons going back

[Steptoe]

, but should last until I get a proper tool to do the job.

...

With the caliper in it's rightful place, put your foot onto the body of the caliper and push it in towards the wheel.
It should slide on it's pins and push both pistons back in the caliper body.
Then knock the pad pin half out, remove both of the caliper bolts, remove the pin and replace the pads.

[Dai wiskers]

I've put the old pads back in for now, one has a 1/2 mm slither on it, the other has a good mm on it, but should last until I get a proper tool to do the job.

I thought about taking the res cap off, but I wasnt sure how much that would help with the linked ABS, the pedal and res are on a different circuit to the controller and caliper I think.....?? Gues other option is to crack the bleed nipple and push the pistons out....

Don't want to sound like the old fart i am but 1/2mm slither!!!!!!!!!!!!
don't do it if your going to put them anywhere put em in the bin
I have always found a G clamp usefull for pushing stubbon pistons back used against an old pad with the nipple slightly cracked
NOTE this will not work with four pot callipers fitted to the front!

[slparry]

I've put the old pads back in for now, one has a 1/2 mm slither on it, the other has a good mm on it, but should last until I get a proper tool to do the job.

I thought about taking the res cap off, but I wasnt sure how much that would help with the linked ABS, the pedal and res are on a different circuit to the controller and caliper I think.....?? Gues other option is to crack the bleed nipple and push the pistons out....

Don't want to sound like the old fart i am but 1/2mm slither!!!!!!!!!!!!
don't do it if your going to put them anywhere put em in the bin
I have always found a G clamp usefull for pushing stubbon pistons back used against an old pad with the nipple slightly cracked
NOTE this will not work with four pot callipers fitted to the front!

Have a word with your local pub landlord and try and scrounge some of the little g clamps they have that hold the bottles and optics onto the shelves I've used them in the past to push pistons back.

Having said that I now find once the nipple is open a bit rocking the caliper on the disc achieves the same