Grimeca Discs.

BlueBoxer · Post by **BlueBoxer** » Sat Apr 12, 2008 7:28 pm

I got round to fitting these today:-

They're 0.5 mm thicker than the OE discs where the disc mounts to the wheel. This means there is very little slack on the bobbins. It's very very close to a directly mounted disc. Will this make a difference?

I've not had the chance to ride the bike. 2x of the disc bolts stripped the socket hole getting them off, so I need to replace the bolts before I can ride it.

Steve

RiceBurner · Post by **RiceBurner** » Sat Apr 12, 2008 8:36 pm

I've just fitted the same to the Rockster. As long as there's some movement then I think they'll be ok - floating discs don't move more than a couple of thou at the best of times! (I think!)

throttlemeister · Post by **throttlemeister** » Sat Apr 12, 2008 8:56 pm

Steve, the S is the only one with 4.5mm discs from stock. If you use the spacers of the R1150R, you wil have normal clearance as the R1150R has 5mm discs standard.

If you buy new bolts (you should), they come with the spacers and washers and springs.

Boxadog 2000 · Post by **Boxadog 2000** » Sat Apr 12, 2008 9:15 pm

Steve,

You have had the experience of the dreaded thread lock syndrome.

You should have applied heat to each bolt before you attempted to remove the screw.

You MUST clean the the threads out in the wheel before you fit the new or old screws.

You do not need to use new screws unless the socket has stripped/turned out.

When you replace the screws use Loctite screwlock which is low strength thread lock.

If you do not clean out the old thread lock you may find that when you try and insert the screws they may bind before they are seated.

Bob

BlueBoxer · Post by **BlueBoxer** » Sat Apr 12, 2008 10:14 pm

Boxerdog 2000, I'd read previous threads on Boxertrix before I started, so I was ready with an 8mm tap.

The righthand side bolds came out fairly easy. The left hand were difficult. I heated the bolts with a heat gun. It made some difference, but 2 bolts 'locked' about 6mm out. Then I stripped the hole in the bolt. They came out easily with mole grips. BMW bolts appear to be made out of 'soft' stuff, and whenever I first touch the bolts, on10-20% I either strip the hole, or shear the head off. The left side bolts appeared to be corroded in, about an inch or so of paint fell off around all the left side disk mounting points. Hammerite Smooth is now covering the bare aluminium.

I cleaned the treads on both the wheel and the bolts, and used 'blue' locktite.

Throttlemeister, I usually use Motorworks or Moto-Bins for parts. I can't find the bold/bobbins as sets on either website. I'll give them a call on Monday, and ask for a set for a R1150R.

Thanks for the advice

Steve

throttlemeister · Post by **throttlemeister** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 6:45 am

Check out www.realoem.com for part numbers. There is a few differences between ABS and non-ABS versions, so you may want to check. Also, the R1150R has 320mm discs; if you have an older bike with the 310mm discs you may want to check the parts for another BMW with the same discs to see which model applies to you.

BlueBoxer · Post by **BlueBoxer** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 9:29 am

throttlemeister, thanks for the link. My VIN is recognized as a Production Code: 0422, batch ID: 47961.

Looking though other models is very complicated. Most other bikes appear to have ABS. I think I need:-
Brake disc mount bobbin set (R850R/R1100R/R850GS/R1100GS and R1150GS pre 11/2001) | BRA30314

Steve

POB · Post by **POB** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 4:26 pm

As it happens I removed the disks from my front wheel this afternoon. I got all but one of the bolts out without heating anything (didn't check the web first!). The other bolt stripped - stupid torx

Am heading to get it heated and removed before I have my wheel painted. Will order a new set of bolts from Motorworks on Monday. One question though - is there any way of tidying my disks?

They have laods of life, but the inners look 'orrible. My plans have gone all the way from "dishwasher" to getting them media blasted with my wheel. Any ideas?

Ta!

throttlemeister · Post by **throttlemeister** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 6:00 pm

ScotchBrite pad

oyster · Post by **oyster** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 6:11 pm

My Galfer replacement discs were 0.5mm thicker than OE. 1999 ABS. New bolts and wavey washers; tapped threads; blue Loctite. Now + 10 000 miles, going well. Slight corrosion issues on the discs due to salty roads.

BlueBoxer · Post by **BlueBoxer** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 7:07 pm

The bolts, washers and bobbins arrived from Motorworks today/

The bolts are a bit shorter, but appear to fit OK:-

The bobbins were 0.5mm thicker, so there is now some play on the disk.

I can resume normal commuting tomorrow

Thanks for the help in getting this sorted.

Steve

simon · Post by **simon** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 11:11 am

I had exactly the same.. short bolts + long bobbins!
I rang Motorworks who said that the bolts were correct, but if I preferred they could send longer ones. As wanted to get out and as far as I understand, as long as a bolt extends its diameter into the threaded bit should be ok (like bolt+nut..). WRT thick bobbins I wasn't too sure so put old wavy washers behind disks. Need to make sure bobbin isn't nipping the behind washer (a bit fiddly). Plus see this.. http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/ ... spid=47962 go to Brakes and go down to "Front Wheel Brake without integral ABS" Diagram #34_1192... There's a "stop disk".. part 02.. looks like a shim/washer. These are for post 2001. Mines a pre 2001 non-abs.
Anyway, with washers behind and infront the disks don't move as much or rattle, but do move a bit.
BTW where did you get the disks & how much? (found: Motobins)

Cheers,

BlueBoxer · Post by **BlueBoxer** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 3:43 pm

Simon

I got the discs from moto-bins ~ £76 each

They're 5mm disks, so I ended up buying the Brake disc mount bobbin set from motobins.

It now all appears perfect

Steve