www.boxertrix.com

Hi,

Not used the bike for a while but have been starting it regulally. All seemed to be fine till today when I went to start it and just go a single click then nothing. Only thing working is the clock and even that fades out when I switch to the 'on' position.

I'm guessing a very flat battery or could it be a main fuse gone?

I really am a novice with BM's and wouldn't even know how to remove the fairings or find the battery. I know there is a little socket on the near side under the seat. Am I right in thinking it's possible the charge the battery through this??

What kit would I need and any idea of cost?

Was hoping to get insurance sorted this week and maybe get out this weekend

Anybody In North Yorks could lend me a charger it would be much appriciated.

Ta

Rick.

1100s or 1200s?

1. Get an optimate trickle charger.

2. try using the search button (top right) for loads of info over the years on a) batteries and b) getting the fairings off.

3. PM Winger.

Sorry its a 1100BCR

I did have a quick look through the old posts but tbh don't want to start taking fairings and what not apart myself as i'm not confident to do it.

I would have bought a charger years ago but unfortunatley my garage is a council rented one away from the house and has no power supply.

It is close enough for me to possibly run an extension lead across the road for an afternoon but couldn't do that permanantley.

Would a charger recover such a low battery, assuming it is the battery?

Is it something I need to get from BMW or is it a generic charger then an adapter to fit the BM socket?

Thanks

The socket under the seat that you mention is for connecting the accessory socket, available from your bm dealer/ motorworks www.motorworks.co.uk. once fitted you can use an optimate charger to trickle charge the battery with their optional accessory socket plug adapter. but it will be far easier and quicker to get you up and running again to take off the side panels to get access to your battery (8x screws each side), a 5 min job maximum. then charge the battery in situ, its a little more difficult to remove the battery, but it's not rocket science, even I can do it. The optimate also comes with a pig tail connector that you can leave permanantly connected to the battery, for future charging if you don't want the accessory socket expense.

HTH

Steve

Cheers Boxered.

Will have a look at the fairing removal though might just get BM to come and sort it.

Thanks.

This any good?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BATTERY-TRICKLE-C ... dZViewItem

Black Knight wrote:This any good?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BATTERY-TRICKLE-C ... dZViewItem

I'm sure that will work, but I'd prefer this http://www.bykebitz.co.uk/acatalog/Byke ... ger_4.html

as it will work with any bike you own.

Steve

The Optimate will charge a totally flat battery. I had an old battery lying around my garage for 2 years now after I wrongly diagnosed the symptoms of hall sensor failure and replaced it with a new one.
Charged the old one back to full charge last weekend. It took 24 hours.

but it will be far easier and quicker to get you up and running again to take off the side panels to get access to your battery (8x screws each side),

then take the air intake snorkel off, release the tank mount bolts and lift the rear of the tank enough to gain access to the battery. Remove the negative lead first if you have to go on to remove the battery or release the cables attached to it or connect the Optimate permanent connector. The battery is hidden under the rear of the aluminium petrol tank.

Rick,
here's a brief idiots guide to taking the panels off. Like many things it looks daunting but is easy after the first time. Mines not a BCR but I expect its the same.

seat cover off. seat off.
Left panel first cos it sits on top of the other one at the centre point. 5 visible screws out next (2 at rear, 3 on indicator pod). 2 screws are 'under' the faring facing outwards - one right at the front under the light and the other behind the badge. the last one can be tricky if you have low light levels in yr garage so get a torch! I found a useful bit of kit was a driver set with a flexible shaft. this enables you to bend round the front wheel to take the last screw out.
Then release the central lock by the petrol filler cap. Ease off the left faring. still supporting it disconnect the indicator cable - either at the connector socket or by taking the bulb unit off. Lay the faring on a blanket you remembered to bring to avoid sctraches.
Right faring the same process.

When you have the faring off, always check the electrics at the front for wire chaffing between faring and frame. reinforce/tape if needed.

Access battery as per Oysters post. "air intake snorkel off, release the tank mount bolts and lift the rear of the tank enough to gain access to the battery. Remove the negative lead first if you have to go on to remove the battery or release the cables attached to it or connect the Optimate permanent connector. The battery is hidden under the rear of the aluminium petrol tank." Use a lump of wood to prop up the tank while you fiddle underneath it with the battery terminals.

time spent seating it properly on reassembly is well spent as it will avoid cracking the pods if the screws are under too much tension.
hope that helps.

If your still struggling let me know as I'm only in Selby and could come and show you how to get access to the battery.

I am in the same position as you with a remote garage, go for a solar charger (£50 for a 4.5 volt model) they come with permanent connector leads for the battery. once you have done the fairings once its a doddle.


Al

Thanks for you help guys, well chuffed.

Ordered a charger over the weekend so will try that first.

If I dont get any joy I'll have the panels off.

Once I've made a mess of it 'overripe&keen' I'll give you a ring!!

Hopefully charger will be here mon/Tue so should be about to give you and update Wed. Solar charger sounds good too, will look into that, ta.

It's piss easy to do,just doesn't seem that way the first time you do it

Make sure any nearby drains/gullies are covered for when you drop the front lower allen bolts trying to get them back in - as I frequently did in a recent battery event... I suspect using some 't' handled, round nosed allen keys rather than the BMW tool kit ones would help.

Spent more time looking for the little beggers in the gravel than actually stripping the fairings...


Ade