Recently fitted secondhand Laser cans to my BCR but the silicone bushes are a bit knackered. Does anyone know where I can get a new pair of the bushes, preferably in the UK??
Cheers
Nu2
Laser exhaust - silicone mounting thingies
Moderators: slparry, Gromit, Paul
Laser exhaust - silicone mounting thingies
Ride like your life depended on it.
2002 BCR
2002 BCR
Nu2
If you send me a sample of the knackered one I could use it as a template to make a new pair (I assume they are in pairs). It would just cost you the postage
Phil
If you send me a sample of the knackered one I could use it as a template to make a new pair (I assume they are in pairs). It would just cost you the postage
Phil
R11s + Val Singleton Power filter - Lennies induct - Y Piece - Wilbers - PC111
1974 Honda CB750 1974 Triumph Trident T150 Oh and a GS-LC
1974 Honda CB750 1974 Triumph Trident T150 Oh and a GS-LC
I used a modified car exhaust mount rubber! Phil, you could be on to an earner here, seems there may be quite a few takers for these mount rubbers.If you send me a sample of the knackered one I could use it as a template to make a new pair (I assume they are in pairs). It would just cost you the postage
Phil
Oyster. 1999 R1100S. Almost original.
I've been trying to buy a pair of these for over 2 months now.
To get the genuine articles, you have to order through a Motrax distributor. Trouble is, most of them can't be arsed to order them.
Clarkes of Accrington only ordered them for me (allegedly) after I faxed a printout of the Laser exhaust parts diagram, together with the relevant part numbers.
As I say, I'e been waiting for over 2 months.
When they eventually turn up, I'll have a set of cans for sale.
Phil
To get the genuine articles, you have to order through a Motrax distributor. Trouble is, most of them can't be arsed to order them.
Clarkes of Accrington only ordered them for me (allegedly) after I faxed a printout of the Laser exhaust parts diagram, together with the relevant part numbers.
As I say, I'e been waiting for over 2 months.
When they eventually turn up, I'll have a set of cans for sale.
Phil
Sutton Motorcycles in Tamworth 
are on the case but it would seem that Laser shut down for the whole of August 
Motrax (the importer) do not carry any spare parts and as a result are unable to give part numbers for the bushes! Pretty useless really 
Just a couple of observations when fitting the cans. Point 1 - With the rear cowl (black bit) still in place it is really difficult to get the Laser cans high enough to engage on to the support pins, hence the top of the silicone bush gets shagged by the hollow support pins when you 'knock um on'. I tried rotating the bush so the good bit was at the top but this stopped the cans going on at all! Why did BMW make the pins hollow, rather than a champhered solid peg??
Secondly, the bush carrier on the Lasers seems to be longer than the standard pipes which again makes them difficult to get into position by the support pins, as a result of pushing the cans further back (see point 1 above).
Is it necessary to remove the rear bodywork and more importantly, the undertray, to ensure the cans are fully located? A quick look last night suggested that the undertray had to be in place before the cans go on??
With cans on they are very close, if not touching the the black cowl piece. Is this correct for Lasers???
are on the case but it would seem that Laser shut down for the whole of August Motrax (the importer) do not carry any spare parts and as a result are unable to give part numbers for the bushes! Pretty useless really Just a couple of observations when fitting the cans. Point 1 - With the rear cowl (black bit) still in place it is really difficult to get the Laser cans high enough to engage on to the support pins, hence the top of the silicone bush gets shagged by the hollow support pins when you 'knock um on'. I tried rotating the bush so the good bit was at the top but this stopped the cans going on at all! Why did BMW make the pins hollow, rather than a champhered solid peg??
Secondly, the bush carrier on the Lasers seems to be longer than the standard pipes which again makes them difficult to get into position by the support pins, as a result of pushing the cans further back (see point 1 above).
Is it necessary to remove the rear bodywork and more importantly, the undertray, to ensure the cans are fully located? A quick look last night suggested that the undertray had to be in place before the cans go on??
With cans on they are very close, if not touching the the black cowl piece. Is this correct for Lasers???
Ride like your life depended on it.
2002 BCR
2002 BCR
Nu2 - on all my S's I just took a Stanley knife to the rubber 'covers' on top of the undertray. Just a 2" slit on the base of each one to allow an unhindered look at what the exhaust can bushes were up to on the locating pegs. It's also possible to tap a thread into the locating pegs and use a pair of small bolts/washers to ensure the cans don't vibrate off.
For the time it takes (ie less than 5 mins) I just took all the rear bodwork off - side panels, grab rail/seat lock thingy and light unit is all it consists of anyway. Makes life loads easier.
The Laser cans shouldn't touch, or be anywhere near, the cowl piece. I'd reckon about 1/2" at least gap at their nearest point - if it's any closer it means the cans aren't on far enough. I'll pop over to my garage where my mate's BCR (my old bike) is parked and have a look later.
For the time it takes (ie less than 5 mins) I just took all the rear bodwork off - side panels, grab rail/seat lock thingy and light unit is all it consists of anyway. Makes life loads easier.
The Laser cans shouldn't touch, or be anywhere near, the cowl piece. I'd reckon about 1/2" at least gap at their nearest point - if it's any closer it means the cans aren't on far enough. I'll pop over to my garage where my mate's BCR (my old bike) is parked and have a look later.
I took my cracked Lasers off last night and replaced with the stock cans 
It took a leisurly hour all in including removing the rear part of the panier rails, rear light and side panels. I also loosen the header bolts to mimimise twisting bfore tightening.
I'd previously tapped the spiggots to take a bolt and washer to prevent the cans falling off so I can safely lube the spigots with silicon grease and the exhaust flanges with a bit of grease. The cans fully locate with one gentle push.
Rather than cutting the spiggot rubbers, I pull them half back where they are glued in to the fibreglass. There is a securing channel on the rubbers so they locate back no problem.
The gap between my stock cans and horizontal black rear plastic above the zorst outlets is 3cm.
It took a leisurly hour all in including removing the rear part of the panier rails, rear light and side panels. I also loosen the header bolts to mimimise twisting bfore tightening. I'd previously tapped the spiggots to take a bolt and washer to prevent the cans falling off so I can safely lube the spigots with silicon grease and the exhaust flanges with a bit of grease. The cans fully locate with one gentle push.
Rather than cutting the spiggot rubbers, I pull them half back where they are glued in to the fibreglass. There is a securing channel on the rubbers so they locate back no problem.
The gap between my stock cans and horizontal black rear plastic above the zorst outlets is 3cm.
BMW R1100S (Black)
Suzuki TL1000S (Red)
Suzuki TL1000S (Red)
GromitGromit wrote: The Laser cans shouldn't touch, or be anywhere near, the cowl piece. I'd reckon about 1/2" at least gap at their nearest point - if it's any closer it means the cans aren't on far enough. I'll pop over to my garage where my mate's BCR (my old bike) is parked and have a look later.
Hmmmm....thought as much! I suspect that the support pins are in contact with the bush housing, rather than located into the bush. A result of being unable to initially lift the cans high enough prior to moving forward and the previously distroyed silicone bush at the top of the mounting. I suspect the end of the pin is digging into the mashed up bush, thus preventing moving forward.
Looks like the rear cowls gotta come off tonight!!
Julian
Threading the pins sounds like a good idea. When are you in the area??
Ride like your life depended on it.
2002 BCR
2002 BCR
-
GeordieBoy
- Posts: 232
- Joined: Thu Jun 01, 2006 1:16 pm
- Location: Newcastle upon Tyne
Had a right old job getting mine on. I like to think I'm a semi-competent mechanic, but in the end I admitted defeat, enlisted the help of a professional & paid him an hour's labour to preserve my sanity.
Mine were purchased secondhand & have a small bracket welded onto the front. I use a bog standard exhaust spring (with a hook at both ends) to secure the cans to the up-pipe by means of this small bracket. Works a treat.
Perhaps it's the hooligan in me, but I don't enjoy riding bikes with quiet exhausts & the Lasers were certainly worth the effort!
Mark
Mine were purchased secondhand & have a small bracket welded onto the front. I use a bog standard exhaust spring (with a hook at both ends) to secure the cans to the up-pipe by means of this small bracket. Works a treat.
Perhaps it's the hooligan in me, but I don't enjoy riding bikes with quiet exhausts & the Lasers were certainly worth the effort!
Mark
'06 RSVR & '98 FireBlade
Hmmmmm.....removed the rear cowl. Lifted the gromit thingies above the support pins to expose the pins with cans insitu. Pins are located into bushes but decided to remove and refit the cans (again). Lot easier with cowl removed and even slightly lubricated the bushes before application. Installation relatively simple and the use of a twatting implement soon had the cans fully located. Tightened everthing up, applied rear cowl and hey presto, about 5mm clearance between closest part of cowl and cans. Until I went out for a little blast!! When I got back the cans had moved back again so they are touching the edge of the cowl. I'd put it down to thermal expansion of the exhaust but even when cold its in the same place.
The Laser cans are fitted to a new Remus Y piece. Any ideas (apart from my complete mechanical ineptitude)
By the way, first run after fitting cans it sounded rather loud...in a farty, raspbarry sort of way, but affer a while they seemed to quieten down a bit. Nice sound though.
Also, everything everyone has ever said about removing the cat is true. More mid range and it even seems to rev much easier.
While I'm on the subject. I have just fitted a new rear Ohlins. Set the damping up as per the instructions and it feels really nice. However, bike seems taller than before or is it just me? (seems to lean over further on side stand
) I assumed the Ohlins is the same length as the standard BCR shock?
Now then...about that front shock
The Laser cans are fitted to a new Remus Y piece. Any ideas (apart from my complete mechanical ineptitude)
By the way, first run after fitting cans it sounded rather loud...in a farty, raspbarry sort of way, but affer a while they seemed to quieten down a bit. Nice sound though.
Also, everything everyone has ever said about removing the cat is true. More mid range and it even seems to rev much easier.
While I'm on the subject. I have just fitted a new rear Ohlins. Set the damping up as per the instructions and it feels really nice. However, bike seems taller than before or is it just me? (seems to lean over further on side stand
) I assumed the Ohlins is the same length as the standard BCR shock?Now then...about that front shock
Ride like your life depended on it.
2002 BCR
2002 BCR
By the way, first run after fitting cans it sounded rather loud...in a farty, raspbarry sort of way, but affer a while they seemed to quieten down a bit. Nice sound though.
Nu2 - you are just going deaf
Offer still stands if someone can let me have a sample
Phil
Nu2 - you are just going deaf
Offer still stands if someone can let me have a sample
Phil
R11s + Val Singleton Power filter - Lennies induct - Y Piece - Wilbers - PC111
1974 Honda CB750 1974 Triumph Trident T150 Oh and a GS-LC
1974 Honda CB750 1974 Triumph Trident T150 Oh and a GS-LC