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EVO II Tokico Calliper Overhaul

Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 8:24 pm
by minivin
Well, it's gotten to the point where what ever I do, the front offside calliper binds and eventually overheats the pads and locks on at speed :? so just got an overhaul kit from Sherlocks

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No I take it the broader seals with the two white bands are the hydraulic seals, while the twin lipped smaller items are dust seals???? just that I've already lost two of the smaller one's already on the calliper since they popped out due to the corrosion in the body :roll:

Job for Sunday at present, start christmas as I mean to carry on...... with a drink in one hand and a spanner in the other :P

Re: EVO II Tokico Calliper Overhaul

Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 9:38 pm
by Jason M
Out of interest, how much were the seals? I got a quote for a set for my Thundercat once and they wanted about 70 quid :shock:

Posted: Tue Dec 19, 2006 10:17 pm
by minivin
kit, including P&P & VAT was £40.54, part number 011387 Caliper Kit Tokico, I thought it was quite reasonable considering the pistons are present as well :?

Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 8:25 am
by Jason M
minivin wrote:kit, including P&P & VAT was £40.54, part number 011387 Caliper Kit Tokico, I thought it was quite reasonable considering the pistons are present as well :?
The 70 was just for the seals, but both sides I think. That's not bad from BMW anyway

Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 9:36 am
by Black Knight
Thats a good price :)

Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 10:09 am
by R1200SRIDER
Hi ive just rebuilt the callipers on my other bike.Yes you are right the thick seals are hydraulic and the thin ones are the dust seals.

Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 10:24 am
by bigblackfalco
I think that this says something about the difference in quality between the Brembo (BMW badged) units and the Tokico. As a rule the Brembos seem to last about 8 yrs on the front calipers.
I know the rear Brembo/BMW is problematic....think I did mine after about 40K miles.
Bailey.

Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2006 6:23 pm
by POB
I have a set of Brembos in stock for when my Tokicos seize. Apparently they are much more guilty than the Brembos, which are incidentally also easier to rebuild (according to my mechanic). Downside is that the Brembos use a slightly smaller pad, so they don't last as long, pad-wise.

Posted: Thu Dec 21, 2006 9:42 am
by Ade B
The Brembos on mine seem ok - cleaned em up a couple of months back and they came apart easily despite 3 winters..

They are binding again though from this winter (although not badly) and will probably need a proper strip in the spring..

The rear gets so little use I think its on the original pads...


Ade

Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 1:51 pm
by minivin
Cheers, have just had to refit the calliper, minus pads and use some allen keys bunged in between the pistons and the disc once each piston came out under the EVO pressure, one came straight out, the other two resisted, and finally the nearside main piston took a good shove on the EVO lever to get it to move :? think I could be in shit creak rebuilding this calliper as there was white dust everywhere and the dust seals were popping out with the pistons

It's been some time since I've looked at a non-ABS bike, are the mounting dimensions the same between the Brembo and Tokico callipers from 2002 onwards?

Knew I should have got the Vincent back on the road sooner, useless modern rubbish :P

Posted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 7:15 pm
by minivin
oh joy of joys what a day I have had, nearly got to the point of splitting the calliper to extract the last piston, but an 1/8" drill hole through the piston and a small screwdriver put through, some PX24 and wiggle here and there and a lever, and, it was finally out :roll:

Calliper had corrosion in all dust seal recesses and on the lands between the dust seal and hydraulic seal, and to finish it off the front position hydraulic seals had corrosion underneath them

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two hours of scraping and polishing and nearly all hints of corrosion have been removed, and with some Bel Ray silicone grease I've built the new pistons and seals into the calliper

next job for tomorrow, bleed the bugger :? the bleed nipple is right next to the inlet union, so if you crack that off all you bleed is the supply line to the calliper (fecking great design, arse worrier's), only way I can think is to wedge three pistons and push out a top main piston first, let it settle, and then open the bleed nipple and push the piston back in thereby pushing the air out and leaving fluid in that region....... then naturally onto the next piston with the first wedged and around the calliper.

you'll know tomorrow night if I've been successful :(