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Am about to embark on first home service at 34k.

Have ordered plugs, air filter, (already have oil filter and final drive seals) poly V belt and new front pads.

Anyone any top tips for changing oil to final drive (gearbox oil got replaced recently) and for changing the poly V belt (which I had never heard of until this afternoon).

Will be undertaken in the open air which could be fun given current weather - parts due monday.

Cheers

Ade

Fuel filter???

You need Bailey to put his sixpeneeth in,he came up with a novel way of changing the belt,if my bad memory serves me right.

If you must change the final drive oil with the bike on the sidestand, make sure you have a funnel or something similar under the drain so that the oil doesn't end up all over your back tyre.

cheers guys

fuel filter was done at 24k, from memory they changed the fuel pump as well!

Will buy a load of ss fixings whilst I have the front cover off as well...

Ade

Ade
Cut the old pulley belt off,then slip the new one as far on as possible and then turn the pulley using the bolt head to get to ride onto the pulley.If you know what i mean.
gus

Ade B wrote:Anyone any top tips for changing oil to final drive (gearbox oil got replaced recently) and for changing the poly V belt (which I had never heard of until this afternoon).

Make sure that you can loosen the filler cap BEFORE draining the oil

Poly V belt? What do that do?

Poly V belt? What do that do? Shocked

Its the meccano rubber band bit at the front that connects the windlass to the elbow disc.

In truth I have no idea yet but it looks good and technical in the manual

Will let you know when I break it.

Ade.

It's the belt from the crank pulley to the alternator, which is on top of the engine.

I am no where near replacing mine, but I believe the early belts were quite low service intervals, but you can fit a long life belt, and pulleys.

But I'd get that confirmed.

John

Bloke at SL motorcycles checked the VIN and confirmed that its only the belt that is scheduled for replacement in this case.

The cost wasn't much so I got it anyway.. what was a surprise was the front pads - £56 didn't check with motorworks first...

hey ho, its only money.

Ade.

ps. think we may have bought a flat (at last!)

So the service went almost according to plan.

Spark plugs, easy

Air filter, fairly straight forward

Front brakes - the pistons unseized after a surprisingly small amount of persuasion but they don't seem to work evenly on the LH caliper (the inner pad there was a hair's breadth away from the metal - no wonder the brakes were shite!)

The pistons all looked in reasonable fettle despite 3 winters in my ownership... not quite R6 easy to move (or take to bits...) would probably need to strip completely with new seals to get them totally sorted - but life is too short. this week..

quite how BMW thought that the design of the brake fluid reservoir was a good idea is beyond me.. looks great from the saddle - are you meant to top the bike up on the side stand??? Fluid everywhere... (fortunately the plastics were on the shed roof..)

Poly v belt - plastic cover had to come off, there's not much room to work down there, oh.. why does the allen key seem to be spinning in the bolt....
Come back to that job then..

Oil change, easy enough, the filter socket and driver got a good hot oil bath and the yard was liberally lubricated despite my best efforts in spreading a couple of pages of MCN around the area...

Then my mate and his missus turned up with a bag full of becks and lamb chops. Gloves off, barbie on.

Final drive oil change and belt will have to wait till later then..



Quite shocked at the state of the pads.

Also tried to remove the front mudguard for a clean up as I took the wheel out to make the brake job a bit easier. The bottom fasteners had other ideas though so the mudguard stayed put....

Paintwork on the bottom of the engine is quite spectacularly flaky. I wont look down there again in a hurry...

Why do BMW fit fasteners made of cheese in direct line of road crud/ salt etc. Any ideas how to get the 4mm allen bolt off the front cover without melting the plastic/ leaving a small stud sticking out the front? Anyone got a Dremel nearby??



Ade

Alright Ade - all went well then...

Re that sheared cover bolt - I would just remove the ones that you can then take the cover off and you will have a little stump to attack with moleys or more properly one of those stud extractor sockets. If just the head centre is mashed then I'd try some little moleys first or more properly a stud extractor socket if you can get one on (they're slightly recessed aren't they? Either that or cut a slot in the head with a hack saw and then use a screwdriver to get it out

Jason

the brakes...

they work!!


can't believe how bad they had got - its like a new bike

Just need to sort the bolts out in time for something else to go wrong...

Ade.

Ade B wrote:So the service went almost according to plan.

Any ideas how to get the 4mm allen bolt off the front cover without melting the plastic/ leaving a small stud sticking out the front? Anyone got a Dremel nearby??



Ade

If it's "just" the allen key spinning in the bolt head you could try some valve grinding paste on the head of the allen key . Has worked in similar situations for me in the past.
Nigel B.