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First MOT coming up so time to remove my Vanderlinde Exhaust!

I can unbolt everything but it will not pull off. I suspect the problem is related to the fact I cannot split the exhaust at the join before the silencer - it appears to be rusted on: and the angular alignment between the lower mounting bobbins on the frame and the upper rubbers at the silencer are misaligned to the extent it will not pull off.

Any suggestions? I fear I will need a chisel to separate the silencer connection from the lower pipe!

Firstly....do not undo the lower bolts that connect the mid section to the headers.
Make sure the clamping ring around the silencer join is loose.
Then get a rubber mallet and lightly tap the silencer bodies towards the rear of the bike.Alternate to each side of the unit and gradually the 2 sections should separate.
If you think the 2 have rusted together...liberally coat the joint with penetrating oil and leave over night.
If this does not help,then your only other option is to carefully heat the joint with a blowtorch etc.
Maybe i should add:is it totally essential for you to remove the Vanderlinde for the MOT?
If I were you,I'd simply find an MOT tester who will test the bike with the system fitted.Just as long as it is not too loud this should not be a problem.
HTH?
Bailey.

Hi, I removed my VdeL exhaust after 14,000 miles without too much trouble, left the bottom end attatched then with a combination of rubber mallet,WD40, and a lot of wiggling. It came free.
I would think twice about removing it for the MOT though....why not take it too a garage that does not find noise an issue ?? If you don't know of one ask a Harley rider !!
Steve

Why not just put a e mark badge on it?

Ditto the previous comments on friendly MOT stations.
Vanderlinde removal;
I tried to take mine off over the winter to give it a clean and the only problem I found was the rubbers that go onto the pegs above the twin silencer section had got stuck fast. I removed the number plate holder then used a long thin screwdriver to poke between the rubber and peg whilst firing wd40 into to gap. Once the sticky was broken they slipped off a treat without seperating at the joint on the up pipe.

Lloyd

Do you know anyone with a wood working sash cramp ?



That's what I used to use when I had an S with V/L pipes. The slow drawing force seems to work much better than hundreds of sharp blows from rubber mallets.

Technique was as follows:

Illustrates why you should always use a high temp grease on exhaust joints. I had to get one off a bike this morning that I'd fitted complete with a big wadge of copperslip a while back - came away no problem at all.

Personally I'd go straight for the blowtorch, lump of wood and a big hammer approach. If it's been on for a while and used in the winter you'll only shift it with heat and a bit of judicious belting if it's that tight

Dave.