The lead that plugs into the back of the socket has corroded and upon inspection one of the cables broke away from the female socket - green powdery copper
Is this common and can I just get a replacement cable to plug in in its place? At less than two years old this seems a bit poor even if it is in a vulnerable position.
Could've been worse I suppose - I was nearly been fooled by the Optimate into believing my battery was on it's way out due to a glowing red LED.
Adam
Forgive me father for I have sinned... ex S owner moved onto pastures new with four cylinders and a chain... and back to a twin, albeit in a V.
Adam, I suspect this is common, mine failed after 2 months Have you mounted it at the top or the bottom frame lug? They last longer at the top and I give it asquirt of WD40 every now and then
Dealer mounted it at the bottom when I bought it... WD40... maintenance.. don't I just turn the key and go? That's why I bought a BM, trouble free ownership
Adam
Forgive me father for I have sinned... ex S owner moved onto pastures new with four cylinders and a chain... and back to a twin, albeit in a V.
adamski49 wrote:The lead that plugs into the back of the socket has corroded and upon inspection one of the cables broke away from the female socket - green powdery copper
Is this common and can I just get a replacement cable to plug in in its place? At less than two years old this seems a bit poor even if it is in a vulnerable position.
Could've been worse I suppose - I was nearly been fooled by the Optimate into believing my battery was on it's way out due to a glowing red LED.
Adam
Yep you can get just the cable, its a tenner i think, mine went not long ago, but lasted more than two years, but have made an alternative lead with the old one, stripped the wires, so if the new cable goes can use the old one witht eh optimate...
When can the Highway agency lay softer road coverings??
Now rides a mangled wreck... Ho Hum back to the K100
adamski49 wrote:The lead that plugs into the back of the socket has corroded and upon inspection one of the cables broke away from the female socket - green powdery copper
Is this common and can I just get a replacement cable to plug in in its place? At less than two years old this seems a bit poor even if it is in a vulnerable position.
Could've been worse I suppose - I was nearly been fooled by the Optimate into believing my battery was on it's way out due to a glowing red LED.
Adam
Adam,
Same thing happened to mine. First I knew was when the digital clock stopped working, since it's on the same fuse as the accessory socket and the horn. The loose wire has been shorting out on the frame... I disconnected the socket, and traced the wire back to another plug & socket behind the rear right hand fairing panel, which I disconnected.
Last week when the horn failed during the MOT test, I checked the socket under the rear fairing panel and sure enough one of the wires going onto that had corroded free. This was not the true cause of my problem however, since the wire leaving the fuse pod by the left hand front indicator pod had been rubbing against the relay box and severed itself.
Other than that, the accessory socket has been trouble free (since I don't actually plug anything into it... )
Paul
You really need only two tools: WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
Thanks for all the replies. Looks like I'm destined for a day in the garage stripping it down, checking everything over, replacing a cable and finally getting around to fitting the HID kit still sat under my desk. Might even give it a clean while I'm at it
The S may have Ducati style tail pipes but does it have to try and mimic Ducati electrics as well
Adam
Forgive me father for I have sinned... ex S owner moved onto pastures new with four cylinders and a chain... and back to a twin, albeit in a V.
The electrics on mine have been my only bugbear after 54k miles. Two weeks ago the no. plate light shorted and melted the wire all the way up to the left fuse box It did this before the fuse blew. Last weekend I spent two days unwrapping the whole loom and replacing the damaged wires..........not fun.
I've also lost count of how many times the speedo has failed for one reason or another. That's teutonic efficiency for ya
I just got rid of my Ducati prior to it having a chance to give me any grief. you are lot are now making me question my choice of new bike. perhaps Id be better hanging on to the Duke and put the BM in the paper.
I've had my power socket fitted for 95K miles.There is no corrosion on any of it inside or cables.I've never needed to use WD40!
It is ftted in the upper position...nuff said
Bailey.
bigblackfalco wrote:I've had my power socket fitted for 95K miles.There is no corrosion on any of it inside or cables.I've never needed to use WD40!
It is ftted in the upper position...nuff said
Bailey.
Bailey,
Have you checked the bundle of wires from the left hand fuse podule, to see if they are rubbing against the relay box?
Cheers,
Paul
You really need only two tools: WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
Fraggle, don't get me wrong the S has been the most reliable bike I've owned. It's never let me down and always gets me home, but it has had some niggling small faults. But, I fully expect to get another 50k out of it before second hand R1200S's appear on the market
I am looking to put my GPS on and would like to wire it in where the acces. socket would link in if I was to fit one.On other bike wire to battery with fuse inline etc, but obviously live when left with ignition off.
If wired in to acces. socket, will power be lost when ignition off?
)
It did this before the fuse blew. Last weekend I spent two days unwrapping the whole loom and replacing the damaged wires..........not fun.
Have you mounted it at the top or the bottom frame lug? They last longer at the top and I give it asquirt of WD40 every now and then 
(in my van) 