The Oil pressure warning light is failing to come on with the ignition and the oil level is fine. I've not had a chance to look at it properly yet, but I did run a meter over the pressure switch and it checks out okay with <1ohm when removed and measured threads to connector nipple. I'm presuming that it's the usual setup of pressure breaks ground and light goes out ???
I would be surprised if the led in the dash has gone, and I've managed to lose the wiring manual that I bought, so It looks like it's a pull the bike apart and trace job . Has anyone had a similar problem before ?
Answers on a postacrd to the usual address please. . . . .
It's definately an led, as is the low fuel warning light, the rest of the idiot lights are standard filament bulbs I suspect. I'm going to have a poke at it tomorrow and hope it's something that reveals itself quickly. ( yeah right ) Wish it had been the stuck on problem as it could only be the pressure switch
I had a similar problem which sometimes shows up after periods of layup (2-3 weeks max). I have spoken to a BMW mechanic about it and he says that sometimes the pressure switch can stick. Apparently it's not an uncommon problem though I don't know how many other owners have experienced it. It usually frees itself if I stop the engine for a minute or two and restart it. It's only happened about three or four times.
A couplel of times lately I've noticed that the oil pressure warning light stays on. I know the oil levels are fine. But the light stays on. On both occasions I stopped, switched the ignition off and then restarted - and the light was fine. So, for me it's twice so far.
In the poorly written but interesting tome The Long Way Round, the appendix lists the parts BMW described as essential to carry as spares, it includes an oil pressure switch. And front and rear ABS sensor.
you've taken the trouble to measure resistance in the switch and have described how it completes a circuit. Have you tried to earth the wire to directly to the engine to see if the light comes on?
To absolutely test whether the switch can complete a circuit, find any low voltage globe, a couple of wires and a battery. Remove the switch and see if it works to complete a circuit.
If enough is enough and more is better than too much should be just about right.
Following mammoth cleaning session and oil top up (with local shop RockOil semi synth - about 1/3 litre) on saturday, jumped on bike this morning and oil pressure light stayed on.
Switched off bike, checked level. Left it a few minutes contemplating using scooter to drive to kingston, one further quick try, light stayed on flickered and then slowly dimmed to nothing....
Did the same again tonight coming back.
The oil level is half way up the sight glass when the engine is cold.
Bike is about 500 miles in from its recent 30k service so full of fresh SL BMW stock oil topped up with a bit of local cooking goo..
Could it be
Water/muc off in the electrics
A knackered pressure switch
A lack of oil pressure when cold?
Sorry hadn't noticed your reply and Q twodear, I have checked the switch out by remloving the connection and doing a continuity check between that and ground points on the bike, the switch unfortunately is working fine !
Ade, wouldn't overly worry if the engine sounds okayt and your oil levels are good. The pressure switch is known for being a failure point. It's more than likely just sticking, it's not unknown for it to stay on then go off after leaving for a few minutes. Not an expensive part so just swap it out to give yourself peace of imnd.
Okay upadte and solution for thoseof you that are A) Interested or B) Bored with nothing else to do !
Stripped down the whole instrument binacle and removed the small circuit board that contains the Oil pressure LED warning light. Initial check of the LED showed it to be fine and working okay, so with meter and soldering iron in hand the fault was traced to one of the capacitors on the board.
It's a small non polarized polystyrene job. This type is rarely used now, so I was a bit surprised to find it. Their value (in pF) is normally printed without units, however another surprise was that it was also using the old colour code for identification ! Polystyrene capacitors can be damaged by heat when soldering (it melts the polystyrene!) so you should use a heat sink (such as a crocodile clip). Clip the heat sink to the lead between the capacitor and the joint and it should prevent it, but to be honest I'd just replace. Needless to say I've replaced it with a non-poly job and all is well again.
. Has anyone had a similar problem before ?
