www.boxertrix.com

Guys,

I need to replace my the primary throttle cable on the R1100S; can anyone indicate if you are able to use a repair kit such as the one below vs the original product? One would assume the repair kits are only for short-term emergency BUT they are a lot cheaper than getting a new replacement cable (approx £40).

Alternatively does anyone know who repairs throttle cables with the soldered nipple?

http://www.getgeared.co.uk/gear-gremlin ... rce=google

Brad

BMbler wrote:Those or similar work, but as you say- temp solution,
I had done repairs in the past, some lasted, some didn't, but bottom line is- cable as a whole is simple and sometimes more, that eyes meet part, where nibble on some occasions has been problematic to route through.
I'd say get OEM

+1

Don't mess with throttle cables, or brakes ..... a throttle sticking cos of an unravelling repair could be life threatening

Thinking about it, give Venhill a call

http://www.venhill.co.uk

They'll make you cables far higher quality than OEM

Steve, coincidentally i reached out to Venhill before reading your post & approx £15 + vat +pp for a re-cable; can't complain about. A couple of others also quoted similar (http://carrotcycles.co.uk & http://www.cable-tec.co.uk); given your recommendation i'll go with Venhill. Now... do i just bite the bullet & replace all while i've currently got the bike in pieces... They recommend every 18 000 & i'm @ 36 000 so logic says yes! So much for keeping my costs down but welcome any feedback.. then it will need a re-balance/idle reset... the winter rebuild list keeps growing..

B

bfisher wrote:Steve, coincidentally i reached out to Venhill before reading your post & approx £15 + vat +pp for a re-cable; can't complain about. A couple of others also quoted similar (http://carrotcycles.co.uk & http://www.cable-tec.co.uk); given your recommendation i'll go with Venhill. Now... do i just bite the bullet & replace all while i've currently got the bike in pieces... They recommend every 18 000 & i'm @ 36 000 so logic says yes! So much for keeping my costs down but welcome any feedback.. then it will need a re-balance/idle reset... the winter rebuild list keeps growing..

B

If it were me doing the job I'd replace all as it's a bit of a pita tearing it all down again to sort out if the others need doing

I replaced all my throttle cables with OE one as a precaution at about 70k miles , a few years go . Looks like prices have increased considerably since then.

Quick update, i can highly recommend Venhill who have replaced the three cables associated with my throttle (i didn't bother with the choke) for the grand sum of £25 (that's about a saving of £50 if i was to replace the full cables themselves with new one); obviously this requires your casing & fittings to be in good shape. Yet to fit but as long as they measure the old cables, i'm sure all is good.

Out of interest, i recall the choke wasn't 'sticking' like i would anticipate it too; can anyone indicate how it stays 'on' as having completely dismantled it i can't see anything other than abit of friction on the lever that would keep it open (or am i missing the fact the junction-box takes care of this through its spring mechanism)? Note: I do appreciate its not a choke in its true sense, rather it simply keeps the throttle open a bit more.

Cheers

Brad

I seem to remember mine had a small spring loaded ball in it that locates in a groove to keep it open, if you lose the ball it will still stay "on", but as soon as you touch the throttle it closes, don`t ask how I know that!


Al.

Al wrote:I seem to remember mine had a small spring loaded ball in it that locates in a groove to keep it open, if you lose the ball it will still stay "on", but as soon as you touch the throttle it closes, don`t ask how I know that!


Al.

Can't see any evidence of a ball bearing on the ETK Al,

http://www.rainbowbmw.com/BMWETK/Produc ... 014582.php

Here
http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/u ... ber=884328

they reckon the lever mechanism maybe loose.

My BCR does the same sometimes, don't mind it to be honest

I could have been dreaming or maybe it was on the Baghira, old age creeping in!

Al.

Al, it does have a spring (not shown on diagram) & i'm guessing i dropped the ball bearing when it pulled apart.. Thus your memory still seems good.. not convinced a ball-bearing mechanism would cause the friction though.. have to investigate tonight..

I'm not too fussed about this either; more so while in bits i thought i might as well correct the problem..

Brad

Brad, the spring loaded ball was a "lock" to hold it in the open position, its either open or shut not a progressive opening like the old car chokes used to be.
I thought I was correct about the ball.


Al.

Ball bearing found on floor (better check my euro millions with luck like this)... Still not convinced how this locks as it a simple sliding plate but will clean, put back together & see what happens...b

Al wrote:Brad, the spring loaded ball was a "lock" to hold it in the open position, its either open or shut not a progressive opening like the old car chokes used to be.
I thought I was correct about the ball.


Al.

bit odd it not showing on the ETK

Probably a fixed part of the lever and have to buy the lever complete.

Al.