Have a silly question.
My fuel tank needs removing to change the filter. If I pull the hoses does the tank drain under gravity? Are clamps absolutely necessary?
Cheers.
Dumb question about fuel tank removal.
Moderators: slparry, Gromit, Paul
Undo the tank bolts LH and RH. For the LH you'll need to remove the intake duct. Lift the tank at the back and on the RH side you'll see 2 hoses which connects the fuel pressure regulator to the tank. Note: the upper hose when disconnected will drain under gravity from the flexible hose. The lower hose when disconnected will stream fuel from the rigid pipe when the ignition is switched on. Please be careful when doing this. Wear your safety goggles because petrol in the eye is a sure way of going blind. You have been warned. It will take a while to drain so set the drain kit up so you can take a break while it drains.
Pull the tank back from the front mountings to free it. Take care with the fuel transfer pipe which connects the LH & RH lower parts of the tank and the vent hoses. There is coupling where the vent hoses can be disconnected so you don't have to pull the whole lot with you. It is a bitch to route them correctly.
Take care undoing the tank panel and note the orientation of it, best is to mark it on the panel and tank for alignment. Pry it slightly open and disconnect the 2 vent hoses in the tank. Good luck with the pipe clamps, I use a small screwdriver to lever the catch over and when assembling it use a pair of end nippers to close the clamp. Mark them to indicate which one goes where for assembly. When putting it back take care not to kink the hoses. Now you can start wrestling the bastard thing out of the hole. Once out check the strainer for damage or holes. Note the way the fuel filter is fitted and the part number is the same. Replace this and the O-ring that seals the tank panel. Don't torque the little screws to tight. Remember to do a leak test by filling it with fuel and letting the fuel pump run before all the panels go back on. Assembly is reverse order.
Hope this helps. Have fun.
Pull the tank back from the front mountings to free it. Take care with the fuel transfer pipe which connects the LH & RH lower parts of the tank and the vent hoses. There is coupling where the vent hoses can be disconnected so you don't have to pull the whole lot with you. It is a bitch to route them correctly.
Take care undoing the tank panel and note the orientation of it, best is to mark it on the panel and tank for alignment. Pry it slightly open and disconnect the 2 vent hoses in the tank. Good luck with the pipe clamps, I use a small screwdriver to lever the catch over and when assembling it use a pair of end nippers to close the clamp. Mark them to indicate which one goes where for assembly. When putting it back take care not to kink the hoses. Now you can start wrestling the bastard thing out of the hole. Once out check the strainer for damage or holes. Note the way the fuel filter is fitted and the part number is the same. Replace this and the O-ring that seals the tank panel. Don't torque the little screws to tight. Remember to do a leak test by filling it with fuel and letting the fuel pump run before all the panels go back on. Assembly is reverse order.
Hope this helps. Have fun.
'Let me check my concernometer.'
Maybe I'm missing a henious mistake I made, but I managed to change my air filter, and remove/clean my fuel filter without draining the tank, and only disconnecting the regulator hoses 
I ran it down, not even to the fuel warning light, and by supporting it on the right cyclinder head (lots of aforesaid cloths etc) got all the jobs done without spillage,
Just sayin'
I ran it down, not even to the fuel warning light, and by supporting it on the right cyclinder head (lots of aforesaid cloths etc) got all the jobs done without spillage,
Just sayin'
Blame the Deed, Not the Breed
Traitor Z1000SX Owner
Traitor Z1000SX Owner