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Steering bearings

Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 8:21 am
by Motocod
Hmmm.... I've been noticing a slightly clunk as I wheel my bike backwards from it's parking spot. When I turn the bars there is a definite feeling of the bearings being notchy as the bars go from one side to the other. Nothing noticable when riding yet. Need to get the front wheel off the ground to inspect properly, but it would appear that the steering bearings could be on the way out. :cry: A bit disappointed, as I've only had the bike about a month, and it's only done 14k. Hey ho.

Soooo, my question is, having done the steering bearings on several conventional forked bikes, are there any specific issues or problems with doing these? Or could the problem be something to do with the Paralever system?

When I get a chance at the weekend I'll get the front wheel off the ground and give it a good pull around and see what I can feel. Not especially looking forward to the prospect of replacing the bearings, as I'm guessing it might mean long-winded removal of bodywork etc?

Thanks,

Nik

Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 9:11 am
by ianbcr
nik, it could well be the ball joint :?: .

Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 9:13 am
by Bikerhoss
+1
Also check brake mounting bobbins and wheel bearing (more likely at that mileage) :wink:

Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 10:18 am
by Motocod
ianbcr wrote:nik, it could well be the ball joint :?: .
I did wonder that - I'd like to think that might be an easier fix?

Thanks guys,

Nik

Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 11:56 am
by Bikerhoss
No, not hard to do Nik. Just a bit of heat (120 degrees) to release the ball joint. You don't need the specialist tool listed in the workshop manual either, just a decent length allen socket and a ring spanner :wink:

Also, as was pointed out to me some time ago, there aren't technically any steering head bearings in any case, Just a single bearing to accommodate the top yoke/handlebar assembly.

Here's a link for new bits if you do need
http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/ ... 5_30_KA_05

Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 12:53 pm
by Motocod
Ouch, £77 for a ball joint, bloody hell! Thanks for the link that, that's appreciated.

Can this job be achieve without having to dismantle the entire front of the bike? In order words, am I going to have to take all the bodywork off?

Thank you!

Nik

Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 1:22 pm
by Bikerhoss
No, access is ok. Try a breakers for a replacement 1st. Mine's 2nd hand from a 20K machine, No problems so far 8)

Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 1:26 pm
by Daveg2812
Nik, can't tell you whether you need to remove the bodywork or not, but it's not a big deal. The bolts under the fairing are the most difficult to get at, but it's a piece of cake, and when you done it once, it will hold no fears.

Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 3:11 pm
by Motocod
Ok, cool. Thanks. I'm coming from a Multistrada where it took 45 minutes to remove the tank, once you've done it a few times!

Will have a look later to make a judgement as to whether it's do-able as-is.

Thanks guys.

Nik

Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 5:03 pm
by Corvus
Just check the ball joint thread is not loose before ordering a new un. Sounds a low mileage to have worn out. Just a thought.

Cheers.

Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 5:57 pm
by Boxadog 2000
Easiest way to remove the ball joint from the bottom yoke is to clamp the hexagon in a stout vice and unscrew using the yoke as a turning point.
Not an original idea from but from Winger a former poster

Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 7:22 pm
by nab 301
Which balljoint generally wears , I've been looking at mine , there is some noise but I think it's just the brake pads.. Just to confirm, afaik the 11S doesn't have any bearings in the steering ? Just two ball joints ? . Isn't it just the R11xxR and GS models that have the ball bearing?
There's nothing in the online parts diagrams.

Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 9:23 pm
by Corvus
The two model types you mention operate slightly differently, as you say.

The types with lower bars (sportier, if you must) pivot with a single ball joint at the steering pivot point, with the tubes clamped firmly. The types with higher bars seem to use a more conventional steering bearing and each tube pivots at the top end on an individual ball joint.

Subtle but significant differences.

Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 9:28 pm
by r550s
We had a bike with a mystery clunk as you describe - it turned out to be the fork bushes.

The bike was a later model (without the damper tubes in the legs) which has a lot more fork oil.

Somebody had previously re-filled it with the lower quantity as for the earlier model. Hence lack of lubrication in the leg and excessive wear on the upper bushes.

Just something to check when you get the front off the ground that's all.

Posted: Fri Jun 14, 2013 8:52 am
by Motocod
I got a message from the previous owner last night, and he suggested it could just be the steering damper sticking. Sounds plausible, and I may even remove it, as I can't imagine it's that useful anyway. Another thing for me to check at some point over the weekend.

Thanks everyone,

Nik