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I left the battery on charge on my 1200S overnight and when I pushed the starter the solenoid engaged and then it all went dead.The battery reads 12.8V and I've even tried another good battery to no avail.The alarm works but everything else is dead apart from the display coming on when I switch off.I've got everything off in order to trace the wiring to look for an obvious fault but no luck.There are no fuses that I'm aware of.All connections look clean and corrosion free.Could it be a bad ignition switch?How do you remove it and test it?
I'm getting 10.4V at the solenoid with the ignition off and 4V with the ignition on.Weird.

Thanks in advance

Nuno

are you sure the other battery was good? sounds like a dead battery to me

I've tried a new battery and it's the same.However I've just removed the starter motor and discovered that the solenoid is dead.I'll try and find one from Ebay (or is there another good source?) and sort that.What I find strange is that I'm not getting power with the ignition switch in the run position.Could it be that the ECU is up to something?Once I have the new solenoid in place I'll be able to turn the engine.I'm hoping that the ECU will recongize that and restore things to normal.If not I'm stuck.Bother.

Nuno

I had the same symptoms exactly last year and a new battery cured it. I have read other on Pelican with the same thing. Again, battery.

When you say you tried a new battery, was it brand new? Not doubting you about the solenoid, but I think that could be a red herring, or why would the display not come on, on key on?

These bikes are very sensitive to poor battery output.

Herb wrote:I had the same symptoms exactly last year and a new battery cured it. I have read other on Pelican with the same thing. Again, battery.

When you say you tried a new battery, was it brand new? Not doubting you about the solenoid, but I think that could be a red herring, or why would the display not come on, on key on?

These bikes are very sensitive to poor battery output.

It was the battery.I connected a new charged one and all was well.It was a bit puzzling because the old one was reading 12.7V and when I switched the ignition on the whole thing would die.The starter solenoid is working perfectly after all so all I need now is a trip to the store to order a battery.Thanks all

Nuno

As usual you'll get a good volt reading at the terminals. What you actually need is ampere to turn the engine. As the cells oxidizes you loose the strength of the cells but the potential difference remains the same.