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Shortly, I'll be be fitting a new front tyre to my '02 11s so while I've got the wheel out I think I'll change the fork oil. Is there a drain plug up thru the bottom of the leg or will I need to remove the legs?
Cheers, Nick.

Need to dismantle them unfortunately Nick.
They're a 'maintenance free' item according to BMW, so unless there's a problem, or you're dismantling them for a paint, it's not really worth it. I changed the oil for heavier stuff, but it's made naff all difference to the handling

el-nicko wrote:Shortly, I'll be be fitting a new front tyre to my '02 11s so while I've got the wheel out I think I'll change the fork oil. Is there a drain plug up thru the bottom of the leg or will I need to remove the legs?
Cheers, Nick.

As above, mine's been ok for 98k miles...

Cheers lads. I've just removed the wheel and there is a drain plug up there so I took them out and about a pint (in total) of what looked like quite heavy weight oil drained out.

Nick.

Time to start shouting Dai 's wrong again

I have used old fashioned mineral two stroke oils in forks for as long as i can remember it tends to be a straight sae 30 and contains seal swell

Not tried it in the R11 tho

It has worked well in every bike i have tried it in right from my BSA A65's Suzuki hustler Suzuki cobra Suzuki kettle right up to my Triumph speed four and countless in between
We even used it in the forks of my mates production race bike's RD400e and GT500

Wonder what I'll be putting in the R11 and harley when the time comes?

Doubt very much that the oil will have much affect on the R11 i think over 90% of the damping will come from the shoc and not the oil in the legs

I shall now put on my piss pot helmet cos people are going to start throwing things at me

I think I read somewhere that you only need put a very light oil in Dai 'cos it's only to lube the seals. Got to say I was surprised how much drained out. I was under the impression you didn't need to put much (170ml?) in. Must get my workshop manual back from my mate down the road.

Nick.

Nick, there was a thread here couple of weeks ago about fork oil - I think there's two different quantities depending on something or other - someone will be along shortly to confirm

OK Dave; I'll see if the search function throws something up.

Yeah all later bikes (with 1150 GS style forks) use much more oil, see recent thread: viewtopic.php?t=17385

This oil is lubricant only, I added Auto Transmission Fluid and its working great.

Just read your post R-man and I will be doing what you did:- dipstick and top-up to 490ml. Also explains why nearly half a litre drained out when I was just expecting 170!


Quoting R-man from another thread here....

"Also that as my 2002 bike does not have the plastic tube inserts to reduce oil volume, so they need 490 ml each, not 170.

Small bore pipe, funnel and syringe made adding around 180 ml each leg possible, and after bouncing the front a few times held it down whilst refitting the air bleeders...and hey presto the fork action is already smoother."

I'll tell you what Nick, between us all here, we're bloody good!!!!!

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dave the german wrote:I'll tell you what Nick, between us all here, we're bloody good!!!!!

I'll drink to that Dave.

el-nicko wrote:Cheers lads. I've just removed the wheel and there is a drain plug up there so I took them out and about a pint (in total) of what looked like quite heavy weight oil drained out.

Nick.

Def no drain on mine, and workshop manual doesn't have one listed either, but hey, if it's there & saved time great 170ml for me WITH the plastic tube inserts, and like you Dai, I used a heavier weight oil, no problems so far.

Well 490ml of 5W-30 (all I had on the shelf) in each leg, replaced fork seals too. Also had some new pads on the shelf so fitted them as well. Decided there's another few miles life on the front tyre after all so I'll treat the old girl to a rear one instead. Thanks for your input chaps.
Nick.

Perceived design conundrum: telelevers need a long overlap to ensure stability and accurate steering, plus better resolution of forces. This means a big distance between top bush and bottom bush. So how to get oil to top bush with the minimum amount of oil? Solution put something in there which occupies space but weighs nothing. Contained fresh air!

Anyone know why they deleted the plastic "bottles"? Would seem a good solution on the face of it.

My own logic is that lower viscosity oil is best in the case of telelevers. On the basis that it will find its way into the bushes better and offer less drag.

Anyone know if the extra mass of oil in the later versions constitutes unsprung weight? Or steering inertia?