www.boxertrix.com

.

... in me 11S? We get through tons of it at work and it's a lot, lot cheaper than Opie Oils.




My handbook says API class should be SF, SG, SH and that suffixes CD or CE are permitted but these have now become obsolete apparently and superseded by SL and CH-4.
Soooo, going on this chart, I can't see why not.





Your opinion gentlemen please?

Nick.

Looks ok to me.

Oh God Nick don't start an oil thread

And a +1 from me it looks ok, if in doubt ask the oil company

slparry wrote:Oh God Nick don't start an oil thread

Yes but Steve, we haven't had one all week and it's Friday tomorrow.

I like to use the red stuff that BMW recommends and Opie oils sells. The bike seems to like it.

The harder an engine works the more it needs to be treated so good oil and quality filters. For the 11S multigrade mineral oil is ok as long as it conforms to the original spec. What people don't often realise is that you need a quality oil filter and that is most important. The oil may be top notch but the cheap filter lets all the nasties pass or get clogged up early, be of poor construction and the filter element breaks down in use.

So the oil proposed is good enough but get a good quality oil filter.

That is how I would start an oil thread. Anybody would like to comment?

el-nicko wrote:.

... in me 11S? We get through tons of it at work and it's a lot, lot cheaper than Opie Oils.




My handbook says API class should be SF, SG, SH and that suffixes CD or CE are permitted but these have now become obsolete apparently and superseded by SL and CH-4.
Soooo, going on this chart, I can't see why not.





Your opinion gentlemen please?

Nick.

As long as it has lots of ZDDP.

At least 1000 Zincs.


.

Playing devils advocate, isn't oil used in motorbikes designed to run at higher temperatures than ordinary car oil? And also designed for higher revving and cyclic rates?
Or am I showing my lower muck-a-nic skills ( you got shit in the carburettor...how often I gotta do that).

Boxers are fairly low revving and have separate gearbox oil, so the usual caveats of motorcycle oils don't apply.

Hi
Boxer engines are also oil cooled so they do get a hard time regarding heat , especially when there isn't a steady airflow to help cool them. My opinion is they require a good semi synth or a fully synth to help cope with heat. Heat will destroy a oils ability to lubricate. Change regularly and use a good quality oil filter. It is the life blood of a engine.
Gus

Twinspark wrote:Boxers are fairly low revving and have separate gearbox oil, so the usual caveats of motorcycle oils don't apply.

Steve has hit the nail firmly on the head

But i would like to add if your bike has a wet clutch use diesel spec oil as it has less slippery additives in it so will not cock up your clutch

Remember any oil speed for turbocharged motors will be fine a turbo spinns at over 20000 revs not many motors do

Synthetic oils are used to lengthen the periods between oil changes as they brake down slower than mineral oils

Please note that this is my take on things and may be wrong

Just home from hospital and all went well Dai

Dai wiskers wrote:
Just home from hospital and all went well Dai

slparry wrote:

Dai wiskers wrote:
Just home from hospital and all went well Dai

wot he sed.

Thanks gentleman

Firstly Glad Hospital went well.

Oil.

API SL will be fine. 15W/40 could well be mineral based. Change it often, look for any signs of sludging.

Job Jobbed.

Diesel Engine Lubricants will NOT be suitable for wet clutches as they also contain lots of friction modifier. I will confirm this tomorrow to be absolutely sure. For example VW use a single oil for both petrol and diesel engines (VW504/VW507).

If you have a wet clutch bike, the Oil must have JASO MA approval as this is the wet clutch approval test.

Hope this helps.

I'm not sure about the wet clutch claims - I've been bunging Halfords 10/40 car oil in bikes for years without any issues.