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Greetings,

I say no electrics but that isn't exactly true. The bike started as normal yesterday but after 10 seconds the engine died. Then no starter, lights, horn, indicators etc., basically dead!!! The clock is still on and the side and tail lights come on when the ignition key is turned to park. She is used every day so the battery is fine and fully charged. I've checked the fuses under the left side panel and all are ok. I'm not very mechanically minded but is there anywhere else obvious to look?

Couldn't have happened at a worse time as I was taking her over to France tomorrow. Just as well I still have my old K75!!!

Thanks in advance, Dave

Parallel up another battery and try.


Check side stand switch.

Al

Al

funnily enough I did replace the side stand recently but as the bike was working ok after the change I didn't think it was that. Something to look at once I come back from France. THANKS.

Is there an easy way to bypass the switch if it's broken?

You should still have horn, but BMW modern electrics shut down if no engine running- leaving sidelight on.

Get another battery on it.

Not sure if ss switch is NO or NC - to bridge or interrupt signal. Easy done though.

Al

I'll put my spare battery on charge ready for my return. Not quite sure what NO, NC mean in relation to bridge or interupt - I'm guessing something to do with snipping and reconnecting the wires to the switch - a bit beyond my abilities!!!

Sorry - been answering on ipad, so a bit brief.

You don't say if the engine cut out while riding or idling in neutral.

I reckon the sidestand switch should be NC (Normally Closed) so that on sidestand deployment - the switch opens and the voltage signal is cut.

This would imply that to take it out of the system - you would need to bridge the terminals.

If you have jump leads and access to the battery - just connect up your car battery (but do a voltage check accross the terminals of the bike battery first - the current flow is proportional to the voltage-difference between the two batteries) so if your bike battery has collapsed completely - there will be a fairly high jolt of current from the 12v battery (car).

Just because your (bike) battery has been on a charger - it may still have a sick cell - which allows the voltage to collapse pretty quick.

Al

The engine just died whilst on idle in neutral, 10 seconds after starting. Taking the right side fairing off should give me access to both sides of the battery so I'll have a go. But first I'll have a go at taking the switch off and putting it back on.

f800s wrote:
The clock is still on ,

If it was battery" failure" the clock would usually reset itself as it does when the battery is disconnected.
Possibly the load relief relay? Although I'm only guessing while glancing at the wiring diagram.

Any chance of getting the Open Circuit voltage of the battery?

If you have a multimeter - just connect it accross the terminals (no charger fitted) and see what it is?

Could be the clock is a lot less volt-critical than the rest of the bike.

Al

(I've had a bit of wine by now - so answers might not make as much sense)

Oh- did you check the continuum transfunctioner?

I've made it down to.my bit of France on the old K75. It's made me appreciate how good the R1100s is.

Are you getting a click from the starter solonoid when you press the starter? is the fuel pump priming? could be battery earth is earth terminal getting warm? you say used every day if you are doing less than 10miles between starts the battery will slowly die, if you have an oddyssey battery it will need a good charger to get it up to spec i can put mine on a 6amp charger till it shows full charge then it will take a few hours on a starter charger before it's realy fully charged

The only time mine died after ten seconds was when the Hall sensor went but then it primed up turned over and all electrics worked so it's not that

Stand switch worth checking i think there is a clutch switch as well[can't remember]

Fuses check fuses with a meter they can look good but still be blown

Glad you got to France ok hope you have a good journey home

Report back and tell us what the outcome is Dai

....

Check the wiring from the ignition, one or more are broken. The wiring breaks after a few years due to being cable tied too tight causing the wiring to flex at the same point everytime the bars are turned, and after a time they break. - It's a fairly common problem.

With the ignition turned on try wriggling the ignition wiring loom back and forth - if it is that problem the ignition lights should flash on and off.

Steptoe wrote:Check the wiring from the ignition. The wiring break after a few years due to being cable tied too tight causing the wiring to flex at the same point everytime the bars are turned. - It's a fairly common problem.

With the ignition turned on try wriggling the ignition wiring loom back and forth - if it is that problem the ignition lights should flash on and off.

Good point i had forgotten how tight the wiring is on a bike from the factory

Top tip if you see a post from Steptoe let it sink in he's usually right

Thanks guys, plenty to look for but I may take the easy route and get the bike recovered to my little local BMW mechanic. I'm coming back out here in less than 2 weeks and although the K75 made it I'd rather do it in comfort on the R.