Oil filter stuck
Moderators: slparry, Gromit, Paul
Oil filter stuck
With some time to spend on the bike, I tried to remove the K&N oil filter today. I bought this based on the strength of the company reputation, possibly a better item than OE. I remember when I put it in, it did not feel great. Today I realised what that was, the poor metal nut on the can. Unlike the usual Mahle filter, the K&N does not have flats on the end of the can for the cup tool to grab. The K&N tin is smooth sided, fitting is via the captive nut on the end. That nut has now rounded, it is pretty soft and my special grabber 16mm socket now spins on that nut. I cant get a similar 15mm socket on and figure it would probably spin if I did. I tried Steptoe's idea of jamming emery paper ( 80 grit) between the cup removal tool and the can, but it spins. I tried a three leg oil can tool, but there is only about 4mm space between the can and the sump recess, the leg is too thick to fit. I dont have access to a welder. Any ideas anyone?
Oyster. 1999 R1100S. Almost original.
yup..
On your 'normal' filter removal tool, drill 2 holes diagonally (or 3 equally spaced if want).
Fit tool to filter as best as poss.
Puncture filter through holes (drill, punch etc.)
Get 2/3 long enough bolts (maybe 2 - 3 in.) and knock them though tool holes into filter.
Now try..
Messy, but worked for me.
On your 'normal' filter removal tool, drill 2 holes diagonally (or 3 equally spaced if want).
Fit tool to filter as best as poss.
Puncture filter through holes (drill, punch etc.)
Get 2/3 long enough bolts (maybe 2 - 3 in.) and knock them though tool holes into filter.
Now try..
Messy, but worked for me.
Simon, now with a third
Yellow '98 R1100S
(..a bit more gimpy tho'
)
Yellow '98 R1100S
(..a bit more gimpy tho'
![crutch [smilie=crutch.gif]](./images/smilies/crutch.gif)
Re: Oil filter stuck
Had this problem also. Never fit a k&n ,the nut is too soft and most people over tighten anyhow. The screwdriver trick didn't work , it just tears the outer casing when exceptionally tight. I cut out the bottom of the filter with a sharp chisel then prise the edges of the filter inwards to make it possible to grip the edge with a pair of mole grips. Use a screwdriver through the handle of the grips and keep turning. This sounds a Heath Robinson way of removing the filter but believe me it was the only way I could get it off. Remember to put a thin film of oil on the filter oring before installation as failure to do this can make it difficult to remove next time round. Use the Mahle filter
Piece of wood about 400mm long x 75mm wide x 19mm thick (or what ever you have laying around). Drill a hole in the middle of the wood which will go over the existing mullered nut head. Bang three big nails through the wood around the drilled hole (in the shape of a triangle and just within the diameter of the filter). Hammer the nails into the filter and the rotate the wood (applying force to both ends). Make sure you nails are not so long as to hit the other end of the filter
Never done it myself so don't blame me if all goes pete tong.
DT

Never done it myself so don't blame me if all goes pete tong.
DT
Ride like your life depended on it.
2002 BCR
2002 BCR
K&N oil filters are utter shite. This always happens when they're used.
I've always had success with TWO layers of course wet and dry paper double folded around the standard oil filter tool and whacked onto the filter with a 3Ib lump hammer.
Then with a long breaker bar on the oil filter tool hold a very high constant pressure for as long as it takes for the filter to start unscrewing.
I've never had to puncture an oil filter, once you do there's no riding to someone who can remove it.
I've always had success with TWO layers of course wet and dry paper double folded around the standard oil filter tool and whacked onto the filter with a 3Ib lump hammer.
Then with a long breaker bar on the oil filter tool hold a very high constant pressure for as long as it takes for the filter to start unscrewing.
I've never had to puncture an oil filter, once you do there's no riding to someone who can remove it.
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I find a bit of temperature helps but if you have already drained the sump then you can not give the bike a run so use a hot air gun. The only thing holding in that filter is the frictional resistance acting on the rubber gasket. Some heat may be the key to unlock things?
Fiat Panda.
Fiat Scudo (with speedblock, pipe carrier, reversing sensors, reversing camera, tow bar, some new rust and Fake Plumber logo)
started out with nothing, still have most of it left.
Fiat Scudo (with speedblock, pipe carrier, reversing sensors, reversing camera, tow bar, some new rust and Fake Plumber logo)
started out with nothing, still have most of it left.
Thanks all for the suggestions, I dont like to butcher any task and thought the appliance of science must work. I did like Simon's idea of puncturing the tin with long bolts and had mentally assembled DT's wood with long screws through it, but I did not want to puncture the oil can. I tried the Steptoe method a few more times, four fold emery paper in the cup tool hammered on to the end of the oil can, but it just would not bite, just kept slipping round. After sleeping on the problem, I had two ideas. One required shopping, which always seems to take two hours, but I located a silicone cooking sheet. The other:

is an old tool for grabbing broken studs and winding them out. I could just fit the tool over the rounded end of the oil can nut up in the recess of the sump. It began to turn, but it felt more like the nut was being torn off, so I quit that. I then cut a strip of orange silicone sheet, one of the most grippy, flexible synthetics available and lined the cup tool with it. Still not enough grip. So I put a strip of emery paper vertically into the point where the two loose ends of the silicone met, with half the width of the emery exposed to the oil can. Tapped it on and after a few gentle turns, it gripped and the oil can was loose. Success.

I now wonder if I had actually loosened the oil can with the stud extractor and finished the job with the silicone lined cup tool.
For info, the base plate of both filters is the same, it has six holes at 20mm radius from the centre of the filter. A three prong (90mm long x 5mm) spike tool, punched through the oil can and locating into three of the holes should do the job. If only I still had access to my fabrication shop.
I have included a view up into the oil filter chamber of the sump; there is no wasted space in there. The emery paper has polished the inside of the bore, the lower part shows the rough painted finish.

For sale: little used (only 2000 miles) K&N oil filter. Sealed bids please.

is an old tool for grabbing broken studs and winding them out. I could just fit the tool over the rounded end of the oil can nut up in the recess of the sump. It began to turn, but it felt more like the nut was being torn off, so I quit that. I then cut a strip of orange silicone sheet, one of the most grippy, flexible synthetics available and lined the cup tool with it. Still not enough grip. So I put a strip of emery paper vertically into the point where the two loose ends of the silicone met, with half the width of the emery exposed to the oil can. Tapped it on and after a few gentle turns, it gripped and the oil can was loose. Success.

I now wonder if I had actually loosened the oil can with the stud extractor and finished the job with the silicone lined cup tool.
For info, the base plate of both filters is the same, it has six holes at 20mm radius from the centre of the filter. A three prong (90mm long x 5mm) spike tool, punched through the oil can and locating into three of the holes should do the job. If only I still had access to my fabrication shop.
I have included a view up into the oil filter chamber of the sump; there is no wasted space in there. The emery paper has polished the inside of the bore, the lower part shows the rough painted finish.

For sale: little used (only 2000 miles) K&N oil filter. Sealed bids please.
Oyster. 1999 R1100S. Almost original.