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Al I thought I already gave the guide,it is that simple...
The only thing I might add is the 6 bleeder nipples on the ABS unit.
4 on the last row two in the first.
The two in the first are the non-logical ones...That means that the opposite of the two will bleed front/rear while the 4 in the last row will bleed 2 in the rear rear two in the front front.Like I said pump by hand for the ABS untit.Then igntion on hold lever or footbrake and bleed at caliper.Easy as pie and cost is only the amount of DOT4 fluid you use...
As for the shaftdrive on 65K miles $20 in repairs and rougly 1 liter in 75/140 gear oil is not bad comparing what you would have paid for 4 chains and 8 sprockets and the pain dealing with them.But if you like chains better go ahead and enjoy...
On my second R1100S my paralever rear bearings developed a little play around 36K miles.Did it make me happy?No.But a 100 bucks with less than an hour to repair it was for sure no big of a deal me longing for chain drive...
I would NEVER own another bike with chaindrive.Chaindrive is for bicycles or for race bikes where mechanics can deal with that stuff...Then you don't need a centerstand either and have someone even holding the umbrella for you...

Well, if you add something like a pro-oiler the chain will be just as maintenance free as a shaft. My VFR had 50,000km on the original chain when I sold it and was still not in need of replacement.

But I'd still take shaft drive, if only for not having to clean the rear wheel all the time.

One thing more to add...
You fill at the hand/footbrakereservoirs to bleed the ABS unit.At the AB unit to bleed at the calipers.
Old german saying;Warum es einfach machen wenn es auch kompliziert geht...

That saying pretty much defines BMW engineering solutions for problems that don't really excist.

Ja the germans always try to reinvent the wheel but then without them the world would be a poorer place.No motorcycles,trucks or cars since they invented gas/otto and diesel engines.No heroin or cocaine
no communism or national socialism.
No boxer engined twins...
No EVO ABS...

BMW-Fahrer wrote:ME-109,I don't know what you are talking about,you probably neither...

Actually I do. I'm also pretty sure I don't have six bleed nipples on my ABS pump.

I'm fairly handy with a set of spannery things so haven't had any significant 'issues' as yet, but there are many that have documented problems on getting ABS setups to bleed properly. You also have to strip off a load of bodywork and the tank to get to the pump. Easier than a pair of straight lines to the calipers? I don't think so.

I've also had to replace the gearbox output shaft oil seal (not long after I got the bike) and the paralever bearings. Again it's a bit of workshop time rather than dealer time, but other people don't have the facilities or the aptitude. A recent posting in Tech gives a step-by-step guide to replacing the seal in the rear bevel box including making a special tool for the castellated nut - how can anyone think that is easier than replacing c&s?

My 1200 Bandit did far more miles, with more power and more reliability. I think I had 30 thou miles before I need to replace the original c&s on that. I never had a single mechanical (or electrical) failure on that bike.

I quite enjoy my S, but I'm also not blinkered enough to think it is the best thing since sliced bread.

I actually prefer chain drive in respect of the efficiency, lack of twisting and also the fact that a chain and sprocks is cheaper and easier to change than shaft drive bits. EVEN I have changed a chain!! Give me a shaft drive system or anything else of any complexity though and I'm not comfortable. Computers yes, engines and some other bike bits Im useless (as some will testify no doubt!)
The reason Ive gone for a shaft drive bike is because they ride well enough and its easier for me to think there wont be problems. Of course, theres a bloody good chance there will be and infact when my 1200gs last year had abs failure, clutch slip, oil leak on drive and electrical problems I wasnt exactly in love with BMW OR shaft drive. That was all within about 3 weeks by the way. No bike is bullet proof and to SOME of us poor souls very few jobs are as easy as you make out FAHRER

Don't forget that the first cars had chaindrive,too...The Honda S800 even still in the 60's..
But even with a scott-broiler the chains are a pain and thing of the past as they are dirty,have to adjusted and especially on twins with irregular power pulses or todays super strong fours rarely last more than 15K miles...
But us motorcycle folks wee are so gullible and take the bait from the industry that they are "sporty" because they use chains in racing...
Of course in racing they don't even use O or X ring chains because they cause more frictional losses.I guess if you go not more than 100 miles at a time nd have some mechanics to deal with the mess chains are o.k...
I would never buy another bike with chaindrive unless it is a dirtbike,pure trackhack or bicycle...
But then being on your knees,adjusting,cleaning or changing chains/sprockets,especially without a centerstand can be a very sporty task....
Hope you have all good knees...

Each transmission method has it's compromises...................

I curse the amount of oil that ends up on the rear wheel and exhaust cans from the Scottoiler on my R-1.................

........ but a chain drive shouldn't fail catastrophically

Al