www.boxertrix.com

No Bob,it's just play in the taper bearings within the UJ itself.The splines do wear a bit on the male/female sliding sections of the UJ and driveshaft.
Seems there is a an epidemic at the moment.
I'm OK...I've got a chain thing!
Bailey.

To drag this out a little further, do you also get a gear whine type noise when off the power or do I have something else to investigate / replace at the same time?

TIA

Adam

Bailey, more assistance please. Which bits on the following pics?

Seeing as the pinion oil seal was done at the same time as the paralever bearings should they have picked up the UJ failure at the same time? Thinking about it, they were done at 27k ish so could they have have got something wrong? You can see I'm fishing for a free repair





Thanks

Adam

It's none of these bits.This is the final drive.If it's the UJ it's nothing to do with the final drive.
Bailey.

Ok, you can see I'm a mechanical genius... is it just the bit being prised out with the screwdriver in this pic?



I spoke to Balderstons who didn't believe my (your?) cock and bull story about the UJ - Ze BMW duz not haf a problem, ya!

Adam

Well as they say the proof is in the pudding;take it apart and inspect it.
You can make assumptions about what the fault is,but until you find it 100% you'll never know.
Bailey.

I'm not saying I don't believe you, just thought I'd ask the dealer and then get a price for parts... they were a bit dismissive and I forgot to ask for the prices... doh!

Looking at an online parts fiche it would appear that the shaft is only available as a complete unit

Never having manhandled a UJ how would I know if it was fecked or will it be glaringly obvious?

Adam

To buy new,it only is sold as one part although it is physically in 3 parts.
Wear occurs most noticably in the bottom UJ.Then over the course of many many miles the sliding splined sections at each end of the shaft start to wear which seeems to cause the top UJ wear rapidly where it slides over the gearbox output shaft mating surfaces.
I replaced both top and bottom UJs on my S.Motorworks will sell the UJs separately secondhand....although they'll tell you in a stout yorkshire accent
"BMW only sell it as one peice"!
I've replaced a complete shaft on a GS100.The amount of play in the bottom UJ was tiny but the effect was amplified greatly whilst the drivetrain was under load.
It's easy to tell if it's worn.Simply grab both halves of the UJ and rotate(asthough you were trying to throttle your mother-in-law) with you hands in opposite directions.If you feel any play at all no matter how small...it needs replacing.
Bailey.

Mother-in-law analogy

Ok, secondhand part ordered from Motorworks, £70 + P&P with 14 day return guarantee - New drive shaft is £280

If I understand correctly this is the same job as replacing the paralever bearings (requiring heat gun, loctite and large socket) with the additon of just swapping over the UJ.

Let the fun and games begin.

Adam

shouldn't need a heat gun as the bearings don't need to be removed etc
Bailey.

Thought you needed a heat gun to melt the loctite rather than feck the threads forcing it undone, which, based on my mechanical history is a likely outcome Currently attempting to tap up my friendly local mechanic to either do the job for me or hold my hand while I do it....

Actually, reading it again it looks straight forward enough, however:

What is 'Staburags NBU 30 PTM' and where do I get it or what do I use instead?
What size socket do I need for that large locknut?
Do you have to hold the floating bearing stud bolt (7 Nm and loctite) while you tighten the locknut to 160 Nm or wait until the loctite cures?
Where do I get hold of Loctite 2701?
Any advice on a a quality (but cheap) torque wrench that will cover 160 Nm?

Adam

I've never used a heat gun to get a thread locker off.It just breaks up!
Specialist white grease for driveshaft splines.get it from Motobins etc.
Think it's a 30 mm?
Apply any thread locking(halfords own is fine) compound to the thread.Adjust till no play felt and tighten lock nut.
I've got a draper.does the job fine.
Bailey.

Steady Eddie,

When I changed the paralever bearings I did not heat the fixed stud sufficiently and the internal hexagon twisted out! i the re heated the fixed stud to a suficient temperature and just managed to get it undone I now have anew fixed stud on order.

Regarding the UJ we use a company called Reco Prop who make any size drive shafts for us (well some body has to for 1920's motor cars) so when I remove the drive shaft and if it is the offending item I will send it to them to see if they can do a recon will keep folks onformed if they can do it and cost's.

Bob
Still vibrating.

Oh and will now pick up the Tiger tommorow (Friday) as I dont want to trust it (The S) any longer.

Bob
(have now stopped vibrating)

Boxadog 2000 wrote:Regarding the UJ we use a company called Reco Prop who make any size drive shafts for us (well some body has to for 1920's motor cars) so when I remove the drive shaft and if it is the offending item I will send it to them to see if they can do a recon will keep folks informed if they can do it and cost's.

Sounds interesting. As I'm now planning to keep the S long term if a re-con is possible I'll get the one I remove sorted in time for the next failure

Had the rear end of Gus's S,you'll need a heat gun,and sure you a half inch socket set cuz you'll need to lean on it a bit,a long breaker bar makes life a lot easier but once you been into once it's very straight forward.

While Bailey is probably right,my first option would be your trip to the SoF has sent it well out of tune,the very reason i use the Tiger for long distance stuff,i remember useing the S to go to Assen a few years ago after a good pasteing on the motorway from Calais it was well out of sync by the time we got to the Belgian boarder.

Chris