Horn problems

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Paul
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Horn problems

Post by Paul »

Gents,

Took the bike in for it's MOT this morning (pillion footrests attached, just in case) and wandered off for a fried breakfast whilst they sorted it (any excuse...).

Came back after 30 minutes. "Sorry sir, it failed. The horn is not working".

Now, I've had problems with this about 6 months ago, when the accessory power socket corroded, shorted and took out the 15 amp fuse which it shares with the digital clock on the dash and the horn. I solved the problem then by tracing the wire from the accessory socket back to a connector block under the right hand rear fairing panel and disconnected it. I taped up the connector on the bike to stop moisture getting in, replaced the fuse and we were back in business.

"No problem", says I to the MOT man, "It will be the fuse and I have a spare." I went out to fettle the problem and had a look at the clock on the dash. Strange, it's working so it doesn't look like the fuse has blown. Ignition on, I press the horn button and it makes a half hearted crackling noise as though there is a loose connection somehere. I disconnected the horn cable at the connector block just below the horn and the terminals seemed to be clean. I re-connected it and tried again. At that point the MOT inspector starts wandering over to the bike (which is parked on the street outside the shop) and asks if I've fixed it. I press the button and it emits a decent kind of a parp, so the guy says "that's good enough for me" and turns to go back to the shop to get my certificate. I try a couple more times when he's out of sight again and the horn is once more dead but the clock is still running....

This evening, I've taken off the rear fairing panel to expose the redundant connector block for the accessory socket. Peeling off the tape, I discover that it's dry, but full of green corrosion dust. One of the wires coming out of the connector block has snapped from the terminal in the plug, but is not shorting on any metal surface. I cut off the connector from the other wire and taped up the ends of the wires so that they cannot short out. Tried the horn again, but it's dead as a dead thing. Check and replace the 15 amp fuses, but no joy. When I turn on the ignition now, the clock is working fine. As soon as I press the horn button, the digital clock now slowly fades and resets itself. If I turn off the ignition again, the clock comes back to life (at 1:00) after a few seconds.

So, what's the problem? I'm coming round to the idea that the accessory socket problem was a red herring and it's actually the horn button that's buggered - but then if that is shorting, why is the horn not sounding? Anyone out there with more clue than me (that's frankly most of you :wink: ) care to suggest causes/solutions?

Cheers,

Paul
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Post by stempy »

Have you checked the horn relay? Mine worked loose and the horn packed up. Just needed to push it back in.
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Post by bigblackfalco »

Paul,if it still giving you probs,give me a call over the weekend and I shall investigate with a multimeter.
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Post by Paul »

stempy wrote:Have you checked the horn relay? Mine worked loose and the horn packed up. Just needed to push it back in.
Stempy,

Have't checked that yet. I'll whip off the fairing and have a look tonight. In the event that the relay is damaged, rather than simply worked loose, do you know if it's the same spec. as the ABS warning relay, since I have spare one of those to hand after my ABS problems last year?

Cheers,

Paul
Last edited by Paul on Fri Apr 02, 2004 4:56 am, edited 1 time in total.
You really need only two tools: WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
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Post by Paul »

bigblackfalco wrote:Paul,if it still giving you probs,give me a call over the weekend and I shall investigate with a multimeter.
Bailey.
Thanks Bailey, you're a Gent. I'll check out the relay tonight, and if I'm still having problems, I'll give you a call.

Cheers,
Paul
You really need only two tools: WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
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Post by stempy »

Could be the same type of relay as there are a couple of that type in there, little black ones. IIRC it's in the right hand electrical pod, there are two or three in there in a row. You can make a substitute volt meter with a 12v light bulb, some wire and a pair of crock clips if you have solder and an iron.
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Post by babble53 »

Hi paul.

This problem sounds too similar to the one i had a month or so back. Have a check of the wires as they exit the left hand fuse pod (disconnect the pod from the frame to do this). My wires had rubbed through on the edge of the relay box underneath. I recently had a look at my mates 15k mile S, and his were already showing signs of rubbing in this same spot.
Mine had rubbed clean through the accessory feed first, and then several weeks later, through the ignition feed. I managed to patch new peices of wire in to fix the problem.
Let me know how u get on.
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Post by Paul »

Babble,

Congratulations! you correctly diagnosed the problem:

Image

Now, any top tips for splicing in a new bit of wire? Er, no I don't have a soldering iron...

Cheers,

Paul
You really need only two tools: WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
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bigblackfalco
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Post by bigblackfalco »

You need a soldering iron and an exact same size wire.
If you want to either borrow my soldering iron or pop it over here let me know.
Bailey.
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Sorted...

Post by Paul »

Bailey,

Thanks for the offer. I managed to find an appropriate bit of wire and twist the conductors securely together, then wrapped the joins with some stretched self amalgamating tape. I then re-covered the bundle of wires from the fuse pod to the frame in more self amalgamating tape. That should do the trick. I can now officially confirm that my bike is horny again.

Thanks to Babble for the top tip about the rubbing wires.

Cheers,

Paul
You really need only two tools: WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
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Post by Darth_1100S »

Guess we're in for a quiet weekend on here then.... as everyone "exits stage left" to check the wires. I'm in the fortunate position of having my bike in bits at the mo so I'll go check 'em in a mo. :mrgreen:


Dave. 8)
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Re: Sorted...

Post by minivin »

Paul

If your in the Salisbury area, give me a shout as since I'm an aircraft elecie I have the kit to do the job.
Paul wrote:Bailey,

Thanks for the offer. I managed to find an appropriate bit of wire and twist the conductors securely together, then wrapped the joins with some stretched self amalgamating tape. I then re-covered the bundle of wires from the fuse pod to the frame in more self amalgamating tape. That should do the trick. I can now officially confirm that my bike is horny again.

Thanks to Babble for the top tip about the rubbing wires.

Cheers,

Paul
Classic Motorcycle Magazine, Young Motorcyclist of the Year 2003
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Re: Sorted...

Post by Paul »

minivin wrote:Paul

If your in the Salisbury area, give me a shout as since I'm an aircraft elecie I have the kit to do the job.
Thanks for the offer Rob, but I managed to get the job sorted.

Cheers,

Paul
You really need only two tools: WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
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Post by Harry »

Paul, after our chat this morning I had a look at said wires and both sides were showing wear exactly where you indicated. Not through the tape yet but it would have gone eventually. All retaped now.

And I drilled out the fuel breather hole and even managed to get home without geting a soaking. (bad luck steve) Top day :)

Harry
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