SPECIAL 30MM SOCKET

bikerboy · Post by **bikerboy** » Fri Jun 10, 2016 5:01 pm

HI ALL, - Need to beg-borrow-steal or even buy a 30mm socket with the cutout!? any pointers - Thanks -kev

Pete. · Post by **Pete.** » Fri Jun 10, 2016 5:42 pm

Is this for the final drive pivots?

Boxadog 2000 · Post by **Boxadog 2000** » Fri Jun 10, 2016 6:10 pm

I have a 30mm socket without the cut out which you are free to borrow.

If it is essential to have the cut out i can get it machined for you.

No doubt it could be useful to others.

Just let me know oh and I am in Slough

dave the german · Post by **dave the german** » Fri Jun 10, 2016 8:25 pm

I've got the Laser tool to adjust swingarm pivot. Is that what you're after?

bikerboy · Post by **bikerboy** » Fri Jun 10, 2016 9:17 pm

Pete. wrote:Is this for the final drive pivots?

yes replacing the bevelbox

bikerboy · Post by **bikerboy** » Fri Jun 10, 2016 9:19 pm

Boxadog 2000 wrote:I have a 30mm socket without the cut out which you are free to borrow.

If it is essential to have the cut out i can get it machined for you.

No doubt it could be useful to others.

Just let me know oh and I am in Slough

Thanks the cutout is essential as a 12mm allen key works in conjunction with the 30mm socket if you could machine this please let me know there is no hurry as ive still to a get replacement bevelbox

dysondiver · Post by **dysondiver** » Sat Jun 11, 2016 9:59 pm

they are on e bay at 12 quid ,,, bargain ,
i bought a snap on socket and machined it , jus cos its nicer in my box.
if you use a marker you can get away without the socket , by marking the adjuster and the frame , but for twelve quid , just buy a cheapie ,,,
ill lend you mine if it helps , but the post would be more than e bay price , hth

boxerscott · Post by **boxerscott** » Sat Jun 11, 2016 11:03 pm

good advice.

Pete. · Post by **Pete.** » Sat Jun 11, 2016 11:33 pm

It's not possible to just use a ring spanner?

dysondiver · Post by **dysondiver** » Sun Jun 12, 2016 9:08 am

its the torque setting that spoils the ring spanner , plus it would need to be slim walled ,,, sockets handy enough ,,

Pete. · Post by **Pete.** » Sun Jun 12, 2016 10:38 am

Seems odd that the lock nut should require the use of a torque wrench when the really critical part - the bearing pre-load - should be left to just using an allen key by hand. I would submit that the allen key should be the part that is carefully torqued and the locknut can be hand-tightened with the threadlock applied.

dysondiver · Post by **dysondiver** » Sun Jun 12, 2016 6:17 pm

yep , you could ,,,, but you would be wrong .
well thats what the manual says , so it must be true , although i will admit i torqued mine up on the light side , however the two settings work together , these germans know their stuff.

Blackal · Post by **Blackal** » Sun Jun 12, 2016 6:33 pm

dysondiver wrote: these germans know their stuff.

No, Sorry - Their sausages are the wurst! [smilie=mutley laugh.gif]

(I'm here all week............ )

Al

Pete. · Post by **Pete.** » Sun Jun 12, 2016 11:10 pm

dysondiver wrote:yep , you could ,,,, but you would be wrong .
well thats what the manual says , so it must be true , although i will admit i torqued mine up on the light side , however the two settings work together , these germans know their stuff.

If I am wrong and the Germans know their stuff why you did it different anyway?

dysondiver · Post by **dysondiver** » Mon Jun 13, 2016 12:56 pm

as i wasnt dealing with brand new parts , and a torque wrench that hasnt been calibrated in thirty years , and im not german , thought best to air on the side of caution ,