Tightning up Wheels.

tapper54 · Post by **tapper54** » Fri May 10, 2013 7:14 am

Hi All,Just about to remove both wheels on my R 1100 S to replace tyres,question is, I don't have a torque wrench,(never used one in my life)will it be ok to tighten them as tight as I can get them,has anyone done this ?

Phil Thomas · Post by **Phil Thomas** » Fri May 10, 2013 7:47 am

The rear wheel bolts are the only ones I have ever used a torque wrench for...I think it might be worth borrowing a torque wrench, they have to be very tight. Front wheel is no problem...normal common sense and mechanical intuition should suffice.

Regards to all,

gus · Post by **gus** » Fri May 10, 2013 8:22 am

Hi
You really need to buy a torque wrench. You don't want to strip or break a wheel stud just as much as you have the wheel come loose. Either situation is not very good! They can be bought quite cheaply.
Gus

slparry · Post by **slparry** » Fri May 10, 2013 8:25 am

+1 on this .... there have been many instances of HGV's breaking studs/wheel nuts due to incorrect tightening.

Boxered · Post by **Boxered** » Fri May 10, 2013 8:49 am

gus wrote:Hi
You really need to buy a torque wrench. You don't want to strip or break a wheel stud just as much as you have the wheel come loose. Either situation is not very good! They can be bought quite cheaply.
Gus

My mate has just had problems loosening one of the rear wheel bolts on his 1200GS because it had been severely overtightened, he is now on his 3rd torx socket because they keep snapping

Remember to get a Torque wrench that covers the range required for the 11S rear wheel, which is quite high at around 112nm IIRC, most of the cheaper ones wont cover this range.

Steve

Gromit · Post by **Gromit** » Fri May 10, 2013 8:55 am

I'd never be without a torque wrench now - a good one is worth its weight etc etc.

The rear wheel on the 11S needs an initial tightening to 50Nm then to 105Nm (someone with access to a manual will confirm this hopefully). Most fun I ever had (NOT) was when a tyre fitter decided to coppagrease the wheel bolts - firstly it made a right mess, and secondly it's highly dangerous to do so as the dry bolts need to 'grip' the threaded inserts on the hub. Greasing the threads will cause over-tightening of the bolts.

conkerman · Post by **conkerman** » Fri May 10, 2013 9:09 am

Tightening torques are as Gromit says.

1, 50Nm
2, 105Nm

Tighten blots in a Diagonal pattern.

I would suggest spending a little bit on a torque wrench. You tend to use them when it is really important. The Halfords professional ones are good. I have one.

johnny 5 · Post by **johnny 5** » Fri May 10, 2013 9:10 am

Bought a halford torque wrench a couple of weeks ago for doing back end on the bike which was pricey and then to find a capable 1 in b&q for around £27 if you wish to do a few jobs on the bike i suggest you buy the 2 giving the full torque range.. big-un 40nm-210nm
small-un 9nm-25nm

B&Q do sell them both

slparry · Post by **slparry** » Fri May 10, 2013 9:12 am

Gromit wrote:I'd never be without a torque wrench now - a good one is worth its weight etc etc.

The rear wheel on the 11S needs an initial tightening to 50Nm then to 105Nm (someone with access to a manual will confirm this hopefully). Most fun I ever had (NOT) was when a tyre fitter decided to coppagrease the wheel bolts - firstly it made a right mess, and secondly it's highly dangerous to do so as the dry bolts need to 'grip' the threaded inserts on the hub. Greasing the threads will cause over-tightening of the bolts.

according to here
http://www.convertunits.com/from/newton ... oot+pounds

Gromit · Post by **Gromit** » Fri May 10, 2013 10:08 am

slparry wrote:
50NM is 68 ft/lb
and
105NM is 142 ft/lb

Other way round Steve; 1 lb-ft is a larger value of torque than 1 Nm.

ie...

100Nm is just under 75lb-ft.

slparry · Post by **slparry** » Fri May 10, 2013 10:45 am

fudge

never trust the interweb

Twinspark · Post by **Twinspark** » Fri May 10, 2013 10:54 am

So we can't rely on the British Standard Grunt measurement for wheel bolts?

I've been doing it for years on single sided swingarms.

f90x · Post by **f90x** » Fri May 10, 2013 10:57 am

rear wheel is the only thing i use the torque wrench for. everything else is grunt and feel. especially since i stripped my rear caliper using the bmw service manual settings.

dave the german · Post by **dave the german** » Fri May 10, 2013 2:00 pm

Halfords Pro range aren't too expensive - personally I wouldn't use the cheapest of cheap ones. Machine Mart aren't too badly priced. With regard to rear caliper bolts, I'm pretty sure the clymer manual and the bm maintenance booklet differ in settings

Herb · Post by **Herb** » Fri May 10, 2013 2:05 pm

dave the german wrote:Halfords Pro range aren't too expensive - personally I wouldn't use the cheapest of cheap ones. Machine Mart aren't too badly priced. With regard to rear caliper bolts, I'm pretty sure the clymer manual and the bm maintenance booklet differ in settings

Another vote for Halfords pro. I have a mid range one (10 - 60 Nm) which covers almost everything I need. I also have a low range Sealey. They used to be considered pretty good once upon a time. Not sure what their modern quality is like, but this looks ok for your needs without breaking the bank. Comes with a calibration certificate.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-8-inch-7 ... que+wrench