I think my bike gets mineral oil at the dealer service and halfway between I change it to Silkolene semi synth (Sport 4 ?). The first time it coincided with a track day and the second just before a 2000 miler to the Alps and back.
I rarely have to top up the oil, the most being 250ml on the return leg from France but I reckon this was more to do with the 40 deg C temp than anything else.
I won't bother with fully synth, if at all, until 30k onwards as it seems to be getting smoother as the miles go up - 20k and still runnning in I reckon.
Adam
Fully-synthetic engine oil
Moderators: Gromit, Paul, slparry
Gromit wrote:That always made me smile about the Milwaukee motors - the ability to use Diesel oil.
Yes but the amount of times I've had to explain to worried garage forecourt cashiers that this IS the right oil for my bike.
I have had bikes since I was seventeen and been using the internet forums for a while now and I have learned 3 sage bits of wisdom about oil in all those years and endless threads
1. Use some
2. change it regularly
3. the right weight is best.
- bigblackfalco
- Posts: 1922
- Joined: Wed Feb 18, 2004 10:05 am
- Location: Darkest Aberdeenshire
I was told by Jim at cray engineering that mineral is fine for boxer engines(he's raced the S in battle of twins/Sound of thunder!)?
I went through a 6 month period using castrol R4.The bike ran super smooth but it used a lot more oil.
I do so many miles that it really doesn't warrant putting expensive oil in.
I use GTX 15/40 all year round.
Apparently silkolene do a very good mineral oil which gives very low oil consumption.I will find out the name and post.
I can also recommend BMW power oil.I don't know what's in it but my bike ran great on it!
If you do want to go fully synth...you don't need to buy the bike stuff.Buy the car stuff.The difference is that the bike stuff is full of stuff to stop the clutch slipping and has provision for a higher revving engine 14'000rpm.
Bailey.
I went through a 6 month period using castrol R4.The bike ran super smooth but it used a lot more oil.
I do so many miles that it really doesn't warrant putting expensive oil in.
I use GTX 15/40 all year round.
Apparently silkolene do a very good mineral oil which gives very low oil consumption.I will find out the name and post.
I can also recommend BMW power oil.I don't know what's in it but my bike ran great on it!
If you do want to go fully synth...you don't need to buy the bike stuff.Buy the car stuff.The difference is that the bike stuff is full of stuff to stop the clutch slipping and has provision for a higher revving engine 14'000rpm.
Bailey.
- RiceBurner
- The Mirthman Prophecy
- Posts: 1160
- Joined: Wed Feb 18, 2004 10:30 am
- Location: Hiding in your blind spot....
- Contact:
bigblackfalco wrote:I was told by Jim at cray engineering that mineral is fine for boxer engines(he's raced the S in battle of twins/Sound of thunder!)?
I went through a 6 month period using castrol R4.The bike ran super smooth but it used a lot more oil.
I do so many miles that it really doesn't warrant putting expensive oil in.
I use GTX 15/40 all year round.
Apparently silkolene do a very good mineral oil which gives very low oil consumption.I will find out the name and post.
I can also recommend BMW power oil.I don't know what's in it but my bike ran great on it!
If you do want to go fully synth...you don't need to buy the bike stuff.Buy the car stuff.The difference is that the bike stuff is full of stuff to stop the clutch slipping and has provision for a higher revving engine 14'000rpm.
Bailey.
I'm interested in using the best oil for my type of riding - ie thrashing it mercilessly! (just ask Gromit - he's seen my on my ZXR400).
I've had very good results over 52000 on the ZXR using Pro4+ so I trust Silkolene oils, and would be very interested in that mineral oil you mentioned.
But I guess if I'm riding the bike hard I'll need a fully synth?
non quod, sed quomodo
RiceBurner wrote:
I'm interested in using the best oil for my type of riding - ie thrashing it mercilessly! (just ask Gromit - he's seen my on my ZXR400).
Well..I saw some bloke in my Buell's mirrors
Seriously though - the general consensus with Boxers seems to be; get the bike serviced every 6k, change the oil yourself at the 3k mid-point and don't use fully synth until at least 15-20k. There was some info about BMW changing the piston ring material a couple of years ago to speed up the bedding-in process - not sure if this is true though?
My first oilhead was my old green R1100R on which I covered nearly 40k - that bike got well and truly hammered - but I only used one sump of fully synthetic in that time before reverting to Castrol GPS or Rock Oil Guardian semi.
Another good article in a bike mag recently spoke about some bloke (another crazy courier) with a Honda Blackbird - he spoke of the importance of running-in and how to treat one's engine. His BB had done itro 150k and given no trouble. His pilosophy was - run the motor in for 2000 miles, changing the oil every 500. Let it warm up slowly before hard use then, just as important, ride the last few miles home very gently to allow the engine to 'settle'. Sounds like good advice - well...apart from buying the Honda bit
- RiceBurner
- The Mirthman Prophecy
- Posts: 1160
- Joined: Wed Feb 18, 2004 10:30 am
- Location: Hiding in your blind spot....
- Contact:
Gromit wrote:RiceBurner wrote:
I'm interested in using the best oil for my type of riding - ie thrashing it mercilessly! (just ask Gromit - he's seen my on my ZXR400).
Well..I saw some bloke in my Buell's mirrors
Seriously though - the general consensus with Boxers seems to be; get the bike serviced every 6k, change the oil yourself at the 3k mid-point and don't use fully synth until at least 15-20k. There was some info about BMW changing the piston ring material a couple of years ago to speed up the bedding-in process - not sure if this is true though?
My first oilhead was my old green R1100R on which I covered nearly 40k - that bike got well and truly hammered - but I only used one sump of fully synthetic in that time before reverting to Castrol GPS or Rock Oil Guardian semi.
Another good article in a bike mag recently spoke about some bloke (another crazy courier) with a H*nda Blackbird - he spoke of the importance of running-in and how to treat one's engine. His BB had done itro 150k and given no trouble. His pilosophy was - run the motor in for 2000 miles, changing the oil every 500. Let it warm up slowly before hard use then, just as important, ride the last few miles home very gently to allow the engine to 'settle'. Sounds like good advice - well...apart from buying the H*nda bit
interesting, will have to have a think about that.
non quod, sed quomodo
gearbox oil
Can someone give the exact synthetic gearbox oil .ie the name or number on the bottle so I know what to look for. How much do I need to do gearbox and shaft.
2000 BMW R1100s
1964 Royal Enfield 250cc Crusader
2012 Mazda Mx5 2.0ltr Kuro.
2004 Roller Team Granduca 171.
1992 Jaguar 4ltr Sovereign.
2018 Volvo t3 v40 Cross Country.
Reg & Gwen.
1964 Royal Enfield 250cc Crusader
2012 Mazda Mx5 2.0ltr Kuro.
2004 Roller Team Granduca 171.
1992 Jaguar 4ltr Sovereign.
2018 Volvo t3 v40 Cross Country.
Reg & Gwen.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 120 guests