R1100S rear frame removal

[DampCamper]

Hi,
I'm stripping down a 2000 R1100S with the aim of doing a tidy up restoration on it, it's mechanically sound but the engine needs painting. I've got the front end off and the rear subframe and drive shaft etc but I've hit a stumbling block. The cast alloy rear frame is fixed to the engine with 3 bolts and a stud on each side, I've removed the bolts and the nuts from the studs but that still leaves the frame wrapped around the engine with a stud sticking through each side of it in opposite directions! How mad is that? The studs are too short to get a pair of nuts on to lock together and also the studs are steel into an ally block so they're well corroded in. Am I missing something here? Does anyone know of a magic trick to get this frame off?
I've still got a long way to go to get this back on the road but I'm determined not to let this stumbling block defeat me, any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks.

[popsky]

Sorry can’t help with anything mechanical but this might give a little encouragement, and maybe a very big spanner. This is a picture from James Sherlock’s in South Molton.

Good Luck with your endeavour’s

524B7AFD-6B74-4C3B-B1D7-83E83DD550ED.jpeg (50.02 KiB) Viewed 7954 times

[dave the german]

I've got mine to do early next year - something to look forward to

[Pete.]

All of the engine bolts are through-bolts so the only option is to knock them out. They are probably 'waisted' too so they will only be corroded on the ends.

If I was faced with your problem I would put over-length nuts onto the threaded ends and wind them in until they are one thread from tight, then use a hammer to knock the bolt back and forth to break the corrosion bond.

[DampCamper]

Thanks Pete, spot on. It is a stud right through the engine waisted in the middle with a couple of inches interference fit at each end. So a few washers then the nut and a breaker bar on one end to pull plus a nut and large hammer on the other end to push together with liberal amounts of WD40, and lots of pulling and pushing got it out .
Next job, cylinder heads of so I can get what's left of the exhaust studs removed.

[tiffx19]

I did this a few months back to replace my clutch. The lower long stud wouldn't move no matter what, so I had to basically smash it out over a couple of days, with plenty plus gas in between.. got a good used one to replace it from Motorworks. It got lathered in Copaslip!

I once spent a week trying to remove a Guzzi engine mount bolt. On the final successful hit, it flew out and nearly put my windscreen in

[SP250]

Heating and cooling cycles help a awful lot on studs like these.
I have oxy acetylene gas welding bottles at home and they sort this job out in no time.
However, the flame does make a real mess of the surrounding paint unless you make up steel sheet baffles to guard the areas you don't want damaged. You can hire electric induction heaters which will get the stud (engine mounting or exhaust clamps ones) up to red hot in seconds and thay are a better option. I have tried the electric paint stripper guns as well - works some of the time so, worth a try before spending out on hiring an induction heater.

[KTM AL]

How did you get on Mr Camper? I would be good to hear your results on shifting the bar.