Mamola replica front brake lines.

[Steve h]

OK, bit long winded, but hopefully someone can help me. I recently purchased a 2003 Mamola Replica, non ABS, single spark, my 4th 1100s. At 65 it's a bit cramped but I reckoned I could ease it a bit by lifting the original bars above the clamps. I did have some discussion around the best way to do it, but in the end decided to go for the longer standard brake pipe. I didn't trust myself to order the right length or fitting on a custom set. Now a longer than standard version pipe was available and fitted I believe with the comfort bars. So this is the one I ordered, picked it up from a local dealer today and whilst it's the correct length the angle of the lower (the one that fits the caliper) banjo is wrong and the last bit of the piping is to long. The Banjo on mine, both front calipers is at 90 degrees to the caliper, the one supplied is at around 30 and will not fasten to the caliper without fouling the fork leg. I've google images of 1100'ss some appear to have BMW branded calipers others appear to have Brembo. Mine are BMW branded which I presume all have the 90 degree banjo fitment on the front calipers, and the Brembo had the 30 degree fitment.

Question 1... can anyone confirm that 2 different calipers were used on the 1100s
Question 2... does anyone know if the longer front brake line was ever available for the BMW branded calipers. (part number would be great if you do)

Thanks in anticipation...Steve.

[dave the german]

I think hose length was always a bit of a problem. Not sure if there is a replacement BMW part and HEL wanted to see the pipes which was always a bit awkward with the fixed pipes. I.m in the process of tarting up my BCR and have decided on Godridge Build a Line where all parts including the banjos are available separately. I've got the banjos and a local bike breaker/servicer/MOT place sells Goodridge so I can try the pipes up against the bike for size. Maybe you could try Powerhouse Automotive in Rotherham (I think). They refurb Brembos and other campers and they may be able to help

[SP250]

Steve

I believe the callipers are similar Brembo ones whether they have BMW or Brembo on them, but the mountings are different to the forks.
So the angle of the banjo fitting may also be different.

I found it easier to just replace the whole oem lines with a double length banjo bolt into the master cylinder and two separate lines.
One down to each calliper, mine are 70 cm long, but that is a fraction too long and I have had to curve them and tie wrap them to places to take up the extra length (that is the length of the lines NOT counting the banjo fitting on each end).
My BMW branded callipers need the 90* bend in the banjo fitting and a 0* or straight fitting at the MS.

HTH

[Al]

I did the same as John, worked fine, a lot of places will make up any length line to order, I used p clips on the fork legs to keep them in place.

Al.

[Steve h]

Thanks for the info folks. I'm beginning to think there was no direct OEM longer replacement for the bikes needing a 90degree banjo. I'll have to go down the road of two separate lines.

[Steve h]

Well finally got the correct brake pipe. Lifted the bars above the yolk only to find the cabling on the right side is a little taught on full lock. Took the side panels off and managed to get a little more play on the wiring, not much, but enough to be OK. Having said that I haven't put the panels back on yet. Anyone got any good ideas for fixing the bars to restrict any lateral movement.
I would imagine there's little chance of the bars rotating but would feel better if they where fixed. I have considered tapping them straight into the headstock and using the original fixing holes. The position of the bars feels a whole lot better, but the proof will be in the riding.

[SP250]

Mine have not been "pinned" for the 5 years or so they've been above the top yoke, they don't move.
If I drop the bike the bar may rotate and save breaking a lever still allowing me to ride it home.
Just do the clamp screws up tight.

[Neil178]

Mine have not been "pinned" for the 5 years or so they've been above the top yoke, they don't move.
If I drop the bike the bar may rotate and save breaking a lever still allowing me to ride it home.
Just do the clamp screws up tight.

As you kindly advised me just over 2 years ago John when I did it half way through my hols abroad. Spot on with it too, no problem at all.
Reminds me, I've got a set of comfort bars to go on which will remove the unsightly fixing screw bracket. Bought at a good price. If you want a laugh, ask BMW how much they are new!

[Steve h]

Mine have not been "pinned" for the 5 years or so they've been above the top yoke, they don't move.
If I drop the bike the bar may rotate and save breaking a lever still allowing me to ride it home.
Just do the clamp screws up tight.

What do you mean by 'Pinned' ?

[Steve h]

Sorry , just read the post properly. It's been a long day.

[Neil178]

Steve, not sure if I can describe this okay.
I have seen some bikes for sale with the bars above the yoke with a ‘bracket’ in place on each side. The bars are bolted into them from above using the bar holes and I guess the original thread underneath the yoke holds the brackets in place.
They look butt ugly and rather Heath Robinson to say the least. But if movement of the bars is a concern then this is one solution. No idea who sells them and if they are still available though. Ebay?
My BMW comfort bars don’t have these safety bolts, so it must be okay to ride the bike with just the 2 main bolts done up tight as John said.

[jeznewsome]

My BMW comfort bars don’t have these safety bolts, so it must be okay to ride the bike with just the 2 main bolts done up tight as John said.

Your comfort bars have a tang that locates into the front of the top yoke, therefore providing a fixed location.

[Neil178]

Spot on there Jez, just had a look. I didn’t notice it before. At least I won’t have to bolt them up to the hilt if and when I ever get around to fitting them!